McMillan Spire, West Ridge questions

[chesterboo]

I thought I would put my questions out to the group. I have read several trip reports on the web already. Has anybody been back into the southern Pickets lately and what are the conditions like? Is the glacier section of the climb in need of rope? Or is this just a scramble

[kurthicks]

When we did the route we took 30m glacier ropes, didn't need them since there was 1 crevasse on route. it was ~8 feet deep. The route itself does not need a rope and I found the rock to be somewhat loose.

 

approach/route/crevasse visible in this photo .

[chesterboo]

Thanks Wazzu. I think I saw your picture in one of the trip reports I looked at. What is the water situation like as you hike in on the first day. Is the trail easy to find and how long did it take you guys to get to camp. Is the area suitable for a small tent and are the bugs bad?

Thank you for any information you have.

also, great picture.

[kurthicks]

Water: I don't remember a lot of options (other than the first creek crossing about 1 mile in) until you finish the steep climb up to the heather benches. plenty of creeks up there though.

 

Approach: The trail is pretty good, brushy for the first 5 miles though then STEEP. Look for flagging at the first creek crossing since the trail got destroyed in the 2003 floods. Read Nelson's description. Once up high (over 5000', i think) on the heather slopes, follow the climber's path to a creek. Do NOT cross the creek directly, rather scramble upstream (follow a cairn or 3) about 100', the climber's trail goes off left here. Follow it until it dies, trending toward the obvious col filled with talus. descend to awesome campsites and a creek (watch for loose rock).

 

camp: tents would be fine. There were no bugs there when i went, but that was in September.

 

Check your PMs.

Kurt

[Rad]

The first part of the approach is along an overgrown logging road. It is not too brushy and is nicely graded, easy to follow.

 

The trail crosses a small creek just before the turn uphill. This is a good place to drink and fill your water. The uphill bit is a classic climber's approach, straight up, but it is not hard to follow.

 

The descent to the camping area from the obvious col that Wazzu mentioned was loose and ugly in August so I hope it is snow-covered for you.

 

The snow slopes on the approach to the route are very straight forward. We were on there at night, but I remember only one crevasse that was quite small. The ridge has its share of kitty litter.

 

The Pickets is one of the most pristine alpine wilderness areas in the lower 48. Enjoy it but please tread very lightly.

 

I look forward to getting back out there.

 

The flowers should be amazing right now. Enjoy!

[Ducknut]

Water: I don't remember a lot of options (other than the first creek crossing about 1 mile in) until you finish the steep climb up to the heather benches. plenty of creeks up there though.

 

Approach: The trail is pretty good, brushy for the first 5 miles though then STEEP. Look for flagging at the first creek crossing since the trail got destroyed in the 2003 floods. Read Nelson's description. Once up high (over 5000', i think) on the heather slopes, follow the climber's path to a creek. Do NOT cross the creek directly, rather scramble upstream (follow a cairn or 3) about 100', the climber's trail goes off left here. Follow it until it dies, trending toward the obvious col filled with talus. descend to awesome campsites and a creek (watch for loose rock).

 

camp: tents would be fine. There were no bugs there when i went, but that was in September.

 

Check your PMs.

Kurt

 

Last August that creek on the heather benches was barely wet. Had to move roccks to get a pool deep enough to fill water bottles.

 

Descend (or ascending on the way back) the col carefully. It is unstable glacier debris (fine sand, gravel and big blocks). Don't down climb directly above anyone else that you don't want to flatten.

 

Lots of water once you get over the col, stay high while traversing to the Terror glacier. You don't want to loose any more altitude than necessary. Enjoy the slabs below the glacier. I don't remember any crevasses below McMillan. We didn't rope up. The gully getting off of the glacier was pretty chossy.

[Alasdair]

If you go in the next few weeks you will have no issues with water, and i cant see you needing a rope either. Aluminum crampons would also be fine if any at all.

Also if you really want to minimize your impact you can do this route as a car to car fairly easily (if you are in shape) since the trail in there is not too bad. Here is my favorite photo from a few years ago.

[mike_holman]

Done W.Mac Spire 3 times. The trail up (big cairn) leaves the logging road after 4 miles (2+ hrs) just after a big creek crossing, get lotsa water there. Ascend 3000' to heather benches, where trail levels and crosses 2 big creek gullies. Expect NO water this year in the first, and maybe none in the 2nd - last July we had to head up the 2nd creek for 20 min before finding some small springs/pools. The next water is 2 hrs further, so you better find some.

The descent below the notch is will be dangerous steep loose crap by now (helmets!), but if you stay to the right side by the wall going down, stay close together, or never climb above someone, no problem.

Ropes are not needed, you should stay on the perm, snow fields below the Terror Gl, but takes axes, esp. for the glissading.

This climb is a real haul but worth every effort.

[Juan]

These guys got it right. Much better trail now than in 1987 when I went in the first time. No trail then. Steep trail now. Have fun and give us a report!

 

John Sharp