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Posted

 

i was pretty lazy on the camera with this one; i should have my hands on photos showing more of the complete route in a few days. PM if you want higher resolution i don't think the photo will help you too much. my photo posting skills have deteriorated or its mozilla - see attachment.

 

climbed the route on thursday 6-14, luckily the best weather day of the week. fun stuff!

 

477453-bakerfromblackbuttes2.jpg.f47632818fb004d7c07bdd9c106f6c44.jpg

Posted

Well now that you went and got yourself a betamax photo like that, with it lookin' SUPER-PHATTY, I'd say you're pretty much obliged to go ski it Phil. cantfocus.gifwave.gifrockband.gif

 

Oh yeah, sweet photo man!

Posted

again - the details ain't too visible with this betamax.

i was thinking about those who have skied it while on route - the upper parts are a sweet angle to ski, definitely under 40 degrees, but those lower parts right now, this time of year -- bow to the person who charges that!

Posted
Well now that you went and got yourself a betamax photo like that, with it lookin' SUPER-PHATTY, I'd say you're pretty much obliged to go ski it Phil. cantfocus.gifwave.gifrockband.gif

 

Oh yeah, sweet photo man!

 

OMG that looks good... haha, maybe I'll ski it tomorrow then meet up with you guys on Sunday... haha , yeah right.

 

Might have to take a day off next week or something... hmm. Anyone? Hope it doesn't melt too much...

Posted
route - the upper parts are a sweet angle to ski, definitely under 40 degrees, but those lower parts right now, this time of year -- bow to the person who charges that!

 

Looks clean on the far left and right (maybe there's nasty multiple-bergschrund-heinosities that aren't visible in the betamax though)

Posted

We tried to go straight up the center earlier today. We did a few hundred feet of glacial ice (fun, more ice than on the NR) before the snow ramp that we thought would take us to the upper snowfields turned out to be a jumble of detached snowblocks. We didn't see a way to stick to the ice, and we thought the snowblocks were too sketch (along with a general "things aren't going our way today*" vibe) so we aborted, and I pulled out the coathanger to start v-threading.

 

There are two bergshrunds higher up that can definitely be end-run to the left.

 

Sorry I don't have any pictures; my camera passed away sometime in the preceding week and I didn't discover it until today.

 

We ended up seracing some on the Lower Coleman before heading home.

 

*

We took longer than anticipated to get out of camp and weave our way to the base of the route.

We weren't climbing with the speed and confidence that I know we are capable of.

While we were packing camp, there was icefall right of the Roman Nose.

During the pitch before we turned around, the headwall was having some indigestion.

Posted

Here is a picture from this weekend, courtesy Chris Woytko, of the route and our highpoint.

 

coleman.jpg

 

The sketchy soft hanging snowblocks that we would have had to cross looked like this in my semi-accurate artistic rendition:

 

sketch.jpg

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