WE DID IT

[Lambone]

Yeah, and its hard on the eyes too. Thanks for the TR though.

[Dru]

I heard Jerry works in insurance busines and the computer keyboard only has capital letters to save money or some weird thing like that. He's apologised for the ALL CAPS thing in the past - dont rag on him for it.

[Cpt.Caveman]

True True

[To_The_Top]

I climbed Eldorado with Jerry, and I agree this way was longer, but way more scenic, adventurous, and one of the best bivi spots I have seen. We bivied a few hundered feet below the pass just past the Triad. It had running water, great views to the south and east. Two other climbers showed up a half hour later, and we all shared climbing stories, schnapps, and some had herb. The Milky way was bright, tons of shooting stars, it was very comfortable, didn't need the bivi sacks. There were no flies there, and NO SNAFFLEHOUNDS! We saw lights near the top of Forbidden, and the moon came out later. The next day we had a great climb, got stuck a little behind some Mountaineers, but a great climb. You can down climb the rocks to avoid the other parties on the knife edge. On the way up as you leave the Eldorado Glacier there is a notch a few hundered feet up from the base of Eldorado, you can bypass going around the base of rock. Two friends went up the other trailhead in six hours, both ways take almost as long to get out as it took to get in. I liked our approach, permits were sold out for the other approach. Highly recommend, the only real difficulty was finding the best gully down as Jerry describes. Outstanding views, a zillion biting flies down in the valley.

Bill

[This message has been edited by To The Top (edited 08-14-2001).]

[JERRY_SANCHEZ]

WELL WE DID THE SIBLING CREEK APPROACH TO ELDORADO PEAK THIS WEEKEND AND ALL I CAN SAY IS IT IS 10 TIMES BETTER THAN ELDORADO CREEK APPROACH. THE SCENERY IS SPECTACULAR AND WELL WORTH THE LONGER APPROACH. THE 3RD CLASS GULLY IS EASY TO CLIMB DOWN/UP BUT EASY TO MISS. HIKED FOR ABOUT 2 MILES ON THE RIDGE RIGHT AFTER SIBLING PASS GOING EAST. WHEN YOU GET OFF THE RIDGE AND HIKE ON SNOW FOR ABOUT 1/4 MILE ALONG THE RIDGE, THE GULLY IS LOCATED JUST WHEN YOU DESCEND THE SNOW RIDGE. IT IS LOCATED IN A FLAT SECTION WHERE YOU CAN PITCH A TENT. THE ENTRANCE TO THE GULLY IS SMALL BUT OPENS UP AS YOU HEAD DOWN. THERE WILL BE FEW MORE UP's AND DOWN HIKING AND SOME TALUS FIELD TO ATTEND, BUT THE ROUTE IS OBVIOUS FROM THERE (SHOULD SEE FOOT TRACKS ON SNOW). YOU SHOULD HEAD UP A BIG SNOWFIELD TOWARDS AN OBIVOUS PASS - JUST SOUTHWEST AND RIGHT AFTER PASSING THE TRIAD SUMMIT. YOU CAN CAMP AT THE PASS (BIG FOR A TENT) OR DESCEND DOWN COUPLE HUNDRED FEET TOWARDS ROUSH CREEK TO A ROCKY BIVI SIGHT WITH RUNNING STREAM. YOU WOULD HAVE TO DESCEND DOWN ABOUT 700 MORE FEET TO REACH ELDORADO GLACIER. FROM THERE THE ROUTE IS STRAIGHTFORWARD AND CREVASSES WAS NOT AN ISSUE. IN FACT I WAS SURPRISE WE DIDN'T SEE MUCH OF CREVASSES THIS LOW SNOW YEAR. THE SUMMIT RIDGE IS STILL GOOD WITH GOOD FOOTHOLDS TO BALANCE. THERE APPEARS A SMALL BIVI SIGHT ON THE ROCKY SUMMIT. WE STARTED AROUND 2:00 PM SATURDAY, CAMPED ABOUT 8:00PM AND SUMMIT THE NEXT DAY AT 9:00AM. WE HIKED OUT AND BACK TO THE CAR WITH HORRIBLE BUGS AROUND 3:00PM. JUST REMEMBER THE GULLY IS LOCATED RIGHT WHEN YOU DESCEND DOWN THE SNOWFIELD THAT IS LOCATED ON A BIG FLAT SECTION. DON'T GO TOWARDS THE BASE OF THE TRIAD (FURTHER EAST). I DON'T UNDERSTAND JIM NELSON'S ROUTE (SELECTED CLIMBS) DESCRIPTION OF "EAST MOST GULLY".

DID ANYONE ELSE TOOK OR TRY TO TAKE ANOTHER WAY DOWN?

[philfort]

Cool.

I'm really curious Jerry, why do you always post in capital letters? I'm sure you know that's interpreted as shouting.