clean routes at squamish?

[Guest]

are there any clean aid lines on the chief? i looked at the book one time and all i saw were nailing routes. an experienced aid climber told me there were some possiblities but not much had been developed yet. if that's the contrary let me know.

 

sparky

[specialed]

Uncle Ben' goes clean with some shenanigans apparently.

[flashclimber]

University Wall goes clean.

[fern]

Cannabis and Wrist Twister both go clean. Black Dyke probably goes clean since it's now bolted for free climbing. For many routes (U wall excepted) it depends on the condition/availability of in situ fixed 'heads. Also in many cases just cause the routes go clean doesn't mean that you will get beat up for nailing them.

[Dru]

Even the Badge has been done clean.. clean aid is the big so what.

[Guest]

i definately agree with you dru i'm not trying to send all the nailing routes clean, trust me. i just want some good practice routes that are longer than the upper wall and don't consist of ass washington pass approaches.

 

so what are some of the clean ratings of some of these routes like cannibus wall, university wall, the badge, uncle bens, and the black dyke. i heard there's a new guide book this year are these routes detailed in it?

 

sparky

[Travis]

Some ratings here.

 

http://www.matthewbuckle.net/climb/bcclimbing/squamish/squamishaid.html

[peas]

Some of the aid routes are described in the new guide (I forget which ones), but many were left out. The out of print McLane guide, especially the one with the yellow pages in the back, has the most info on aid climbing in Squamish that I've found.

[Dru]

Matt Maddaloni is supposedly going to print up an "aid only" guidebook.