TrogdortheBurninator Posted June 30, 2005 Posted June 30, 2005 How many windshirts are necessary for this climb? Was thinking about taking the lady up Sahale this weekend, however I'm obviously a little worried about permits. Assuming we can't get a permit for Sahale, are there any other recommended easy snow climbs that would make a good back up (something on 20 or cascade river rd)? The goal is something on snow with fairly trivial glacier crossing. Preferably not to steep, with minimal exposure (i know sahale has some scrambling at the top, but we are ready to turn round there if she's not up for it). Great views are a must. Have all three days available, but don't want anything too remote. Quote
Alpinfox Posted June 30, 2005 Posted June 30, 2005 (edited) Ruth Mountain, Silver Star Glacier, Eldorado East Ridge. Closer to Seattle: Mt. Daniel. edit: the dog routes on the volcanoes would also be good options (South side Hood or Adams, or, with slightly more serious glacier travel: DC or Emmons on Rainier, Coleman-Deming or Easton on Baker). Sitkum Glacier on Glacier Peak would be a great option, but I think the approach is pretty frucked up at the moment due to the big washouts last fall. Edited June 30, 2005 by Alpinfox Quote
fredrogers Posted June 30, 2005 Posted June 30, 2005 There is also Snowking or Logan, although Logan my be a bit of bitch in 3 days (I haven;t been there yet myself). Quote
JoshK Posted June 30, 2005 Posted June 30, 2005 Just a note...I've done all the suggestions people have thrown out there (sahale, snowking, ruth, eldorado, silver star) and I honestly think the Eldorado glacier is a tad more serious than the others. Granted, it is pretty simple but if your goal is super simple glacier travel then it is a slight step above the others. -josh Quote
Alpinfox Posted June 30, 2005 Posted June 30, 2005 Just a note...I've done all the suggestions people have thrown out there (sahale, snowking, ruth, eldorado, silver star) and I honestly think the Eldorado glacier is a tad more serious than the others. Granted, it is pretty simple but if your goal is super simple glacier travel then it is a slight step above the others. -josh Yes, but one can climb the east ridge direct (3rd/4th class rock scrambling) and avoid the steep glacial bits of the classic "east ridge route" (which is actually more like NE I think). The traverse of the glacier to get to the base of the east ridge involves some hopping of small crevasses, but I've done it unroped, so it ain't that bad. Quote
goatboy Posted June 30, 2005 Posted June 30, 2005 I believe that the Eldo Glacier can be very different at different times of the year: when I did it, there was quite a bit of calving off of seracs and such, and sustained sections of blue ice and small snowbridges -- fun! But a bigger deal than some of the other suggestions, as JoshK says. I think it's a good point he's making, to simply indicate that not all of these glaciers are on the same playing field in terms of simplicity. Relative to the original example (Sahale), I'd defnitely say that the Eldo Glacier warranted more routefinding, skills, and comfort moving through areas of objective hazard. Of course, October conditions are quite different than July . . . Quote
JoshK Posted June 30, 2005 Posted June 30, 2005 Just a note...I've done all the suggestions people have thrown out there (sahale, snowking, ruth, eldorado, silver star) and I honestly think the Eldorado glacier is a tad more serious than the others. Granted, it is pretty simple but if your goal is super simple glacier travel then it is a slight step above the others. -josh Yes, but one can climb the east ridge direct (3rd/4th class rock scrambling) and avoid the steep glacial bits of the classic "east ridge route" (which is actually more like NE I think). The traverse of the glacier to get to the base of the east ridge involves some hopping of small crevasses, but I've done it unroped, so it ain't that bad. I was referring to the Eldo glacier, not the Inspiration glacier. The Eldo glacier is the one you have to climb to get out of the Roush creek drainage. Once you are on to the inspiration it is indeed trivial from that point forward. Quote
goatboy Posted June 30, 2005 Posted June 30, 2005 [quote I was referring to the Eldo glacier, not the Inspiration glacier. Yeah, me too. Quote
JoshK Posted June 30, 2005 Posted June 30, 2005 Gotcha. The part about climbing the east ridge on rock, however, is definitely to avoid the inspiration glacier, as it's upper part comprises the NE face of Eldo... Quote
Blake Posted June 30, 2005 Posted June 30, 2005 Back to the originial question. Sahale is a fun solo if you are ok with big time exposure on 4th class (some say 5.0). The glacier is a cakewalk, with not but a couple of easily avoidable crevasses. There's a bomber rap anchor at the top should you choose to rap. If you wanted to rope up for the (1??) pith of rock, just bring a few runners, a couple nuts, and a couple tricams. The truly exposed rock section is short, just before the summit, but i think if you fell from any of it, you probably wouldn't stop falling until you hit the snow. Quote
Fairweather Posted July 1, 2005 Posted July 1, 2005 I'll second Ruth Mountain. The summit view:effort ratio is about the best in all the cascades. It's just a day trip, though. Two days would leave plenty of time for camping and . I've always wanted to add Icy Peak to the day on Ruth. Anyone been over there? Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted July 2, 2005 Author Posted July 2, 2005 How mellow is the Lyman glacier on Chiwawa, Becky says grade I-II. Is there any exposure or does it stay friendly the whole way. Would anyone recommend this? Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted July 2, 2005 Author Posted July 2, 2005 Better yet, what is the mellowest snow/glacier climb in a nice area (east slope for weather) that is a little more remote than adams/st helens? Quote
Blake Posted July 3, 2005 Posted July 3, 2005 Ruth and Sahale are both super mellow, but not east side. ( I suppose since most of the Sahale Glacier drains to Stehekin that it is east side technically, but not as far as weather). Quote
Bill_Simpkins Posted July 5, 2005 Posted July 5, 2005 The "hardest" part of Ruth Mt. is the steep section close to the pass when its icy. The rest is a breeze. Sahale is easy. You can avoid the exposure by going directly up the face. There is an old but solid piton half way up in a crack for pro. A rap to the piton then to the snow(or close to it) can be done with a 40m rope(did it with 30m but had to scamble down a little on the 2nd rap). If I went back I'd leave the rope at the car. Tomyhoi has a nice easy scramble and a really short walk on a glacier. Great veiws. Quote
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