Cutthroat/SE Buttress Question

[rockgirl77]

I'm thinking of doing Cutthroat via the SE Buttress in a few weeks...Any beta? Thanks!

[kurthicks]

it looked pretty dry on Friday afternoon.

[Gary_Yngve]

You should be comfortable with moving quickly over easier ground (up to low-5th).

 

We downclimbed and rapped the route instead of descending the West Ridge. Worked out really well.

[fenderfour]

Bring a #11 hex for the top "offwidth" move.

[goatboy]

We downclimbed and rapped the route instead of descending the West Ridge. Worked out really well.

 

I assume that was with a single 60 meter rope? What was the ratio of rapping to downclimbing? (I think about the S Arete descent on SEWS, which is about 90% downclimbing and a few short raps towards the end -- and then I think about others that are just the opposite...)

[Gary_Yngve]

I think we had 50m ropes and single rappels? Probably about half downclimbing? Maybe eight rappels? It's possible we did a double-rope rappel higher up (we had two teams of two), but lower down, the route is more traversy, and really only single rappels are appropriate.

[Gary_Yngve]

Don't fret over the off-width move right below the top (normally offwidth gives me the willies). It's a one-move wonder about five feet off the ground. Basically a single 4-inch jam and then you can work your foot high enough to step up to easier ground.

[klenke]

There is a route page for the South(east) Buttress on summitpost. Check there. A fairly good route description.

[scott_johnston]

Rockgirl:

 

Having climbed the S ridge of Cutthroat several times I would defintley recommend down climbing and rapping the route. Much more straightforward than dealing with the choss of the W Ridge route. You can also stash gear at the base that way. The S Butt has some fun pitches and the difficult sections are shortish. It will help to be smooth and fast on 3rd and 4th class sections. Rap anchors were in good order last summer.

On the approach takle the last gully on the SW toe of the Butt; gain the easy ledges on the right side of gully ASAP and then only re-enter the gully when forced to do so near the top. Easy 2-3rd class that way on decent rock.

The crux off width crack on the last pitch is short but it has a lot of exposure and there was a very bad accident there a few years ago requiring a helicopter when strong climbers were soloing that section and one fell out of the off width 100+'. I have had clients really struggle there as it is a slanting crack as well as wide. Unless you are confident in that type of climbing I would recommend protecting the crack with a #4 Camalot.

 

Have a great time.

Scott Johnston

[Freeman]

You can also stash gear at the base that way.

 

Beware the boot and pack eating snaffles

[curtveld]

Looks like you've got most of the essential info already, but just did the route last Sunday and have a couple of updates:

1. The lower part of the route had some serious rockfall over the winter - couple of trees uprooted and stuff like that. No reason to stay away, but there is a bit more loose crap on ledges in places. Watch out.

2. We found a good way to the bypass the crumbly chimney/water groove just below the "bunny ears". Traverse left under the small roof and follow ramp left and up. Protects decently with medium cams.

3. Descending the route via single rope raps went great - good anchors and smoothe pulls.

4. No critter problems with gear left at the base (not that you might not!)

Enjoy!

[dberdinka]

curtveld check your PMs