[TR] Forbidden- W Ridge 6/21/2005

[TeleRoss]

Climb: Forbidden-W Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 6/21/2005

 

Trip Report:

Well, so I couldn't find a partner for something more interesting for today, so I decided to go to Forbidden to solo the W Ridge.

Long story short....left car a little after 8. Summit just after noon and back in the car at four just as the thunderstorms started pummeling the area.

Most exciting part of the day was driving home dodging falling trees and branches and powerlines.

Hope that big group that was still up pretty high made it down before things got bad.

Pic of Boston and Sahale

 

Approach Notes:

somehow lost the trail in the deadfall beyond the creeks and ended up bushwhacking up to the lower camp....

managed to follow the trail the whole way down

Edited June 22, 2005 by TeleRoss

[ryanl]

Wow, impressive trip. Had you climbed the west ridge before?

[TeleRoss]

That was my first time on Forbidden.

Nice route, although short...wish that ridge had just gone on and on....

[goatboy]

Nice Work, TeleRoss.

 

Pretty exposed at times on that route -- probably pretty exciting to solo it!

 

Did you descend the route, or the NE Face? Did you take a rope at all? What were snow conditions (and quantity) like?

 

If you want the experience of the W Ridge going on forever, I suggest you climb the Torment-Forbidden Traverse. Once you gain the ridge crest East of Torment, you have a LONG way to go, climbing the Skagit Gneiss crest over gendarmes and narrow, airy sections -- feels a lot like the West Ridge, but much longer . . . . .

[MCash]

Nice job, you were moving!

[TeleRoss]

I went back down the W Ridge. Downclimbing with a few raps. There was some snow lower on the ridge that was getting pretty sketchy on the way down so it was nice to have the rope coming down. Also rapped down the couloir, the snow was deep slop that slid with the slightest provocation, there were also a few holes starting to melt out in the couloir that wouldn't have been fun to fall into.

[goatboy]

Sometimes as that couloir melts out it can be hard to get to some of the rap anchors in the rock on either side, especially if you're doing single rope rappels. Was that a problem at all?

[TeleRoss]

I didn't have any trouble reaching any of rap anchors, although a couple of them in the middle of the couloir required some scrambling around on rock to reach them. There's enough snow still in there that you can reach the walls without dealing with a big gap. Don't know how long that's gonna last though. There wasn't a whole lot of consolidated snow up in there so it might go pretty quick.

[TeleRoss]

Looking across the Boston Glacier

JBerg

Forbidden

[thelawgoddess]

sweet work!

[meganerd]

Is it just me or does that snow face to the right of the Quien Sabe Glacier route on Sahale look kinda sweet?

 

Also, did you use boots or rock shoes for the ridge. I've been thinking of soloing Forbidden also. I'm a competent climber overall, but not an expert. I've done quite a bit of solo stuff though. Judging by your ascent and descent times, I'm guessing you're definetely a better climber than me, but how difficult was it? Did you ever feel uncomfortable being by yourself? The rock is never more than solid low fifth class, or the snow more than 45 degrees right?

[TeleRoss]

The climbing is never difficult. In fact to call it climbing rather than scrambling is a bit of a stretch. Although there is maybe one mid fifth class move. I wore boots for most of it but put on shoes while waiting for another group a little ways below the summit. You could definitely do the whole thing in boots but there was definitely a bit of exposure on some moves where there was just friction for the feet so it was nice having a little grip on the one steepish bit.

I wouldn't call myself anything more than a competent climber so I am probably not better than you, I probably just hike faster. After a winter and spring of carrying skis all over the cascades you can move pretty fast up a trail with a 5lb day pack...

[dbb]

Is it just me or does that snow face to the right of the Quien Sabe Glacier route on Sahale look kinda sweet?

 

I think that's the line that volken skied a few years ago? Looks to be in prine condition though!

[Juan]

J'Berg N.E. Butt. looks perfect right now, much like mid-July many years. But it's hard to tell whether the gully up high has enough snow to be continuous, or whether you'd have to move left to the rock and up as parties have done of late.

 

Awesome job TeleRoss. You fly.

 

Sharp