TrogdortheBurninator Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 My stepdad wanted to go flimbing for father's day and I'm not one to ever turn down a climbing trip. Originally he wanted to just go to 38 or something, however I suggest we go to leavenworth make a full day of it. I suggested orbit as a fun way to spend the day, and he agreed. I began climbing ~100 ft right of the proper route, on dirty , mossy terrain. Things were way dirtier than they looked from below, so I down climbed off a small nut (free booty) and decided to find the actual start. I Copied my topo/route description from nelson guide but neglected the preceding page which described how to find the first pitch. The climbing on the route was a lot of fun. Very varied climbing, and quite sustained. It was the hardest long climb my stepdad has been on, and he struggled a bit on some of the crux sections. At some point we realized we weren't about to make it back for father's day dinner, but it's father's day and he was having a good time. Anyhow, we topped out pretty late and made it back to the car around nightfall. This route is a lot of fun. The sustained nature and more difficult protection at places makes this route feel more serious than the 5.8 rating would suggest. I preferred outerspace because the headwall is so phenomenal, however this route has a lot to offer as well. Amazingly, we did not see another party on the entire SCW on a sunny, not too hot sunday in June. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 Sweet. Amazing there was no other parties on the wall. I myself had Breakfast at Lion's Club Park in Leavenworth with dad, mom, brother, grandma, grandpa, and the Cappellini's (danimal's first legit fathers day breakfast!) Then I slaved away planting rocks and other flora around my parents house. Anyone ever want a good workout...load a truck 3-4X with basketball-size rocks and such, then bury them in dirt to leave a nice walkway or gardenedge. Thank god for and and Fortunatley, I salvaged the weekend on Sat when I sneeked in some ISickleButt R and D just befor the thunderstorm cracked over my head. cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 Is this a "what did you do this weekend" thread? I took purty pictures of a crazy storm in Portland: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-rock Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 Yeah the sky in Portland yesterday eve was a trip! Nice pic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 I helped teach a climbing class and bumped into LUCKY at a mutual friends' property in Leavenworth. Called dad from Gustav's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 Fortunatley, I salvaged the weekend on Sat when I sneeked in some ISickleButt R and D just befor the thunderstorm cracked over my head. cheers! Were you the one that soloed it? If so, that was my girlfriend and I finishing it up when you were there. perfect timing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 Managed to get 2 nice days in the Icicle, though sans parents. Took a bunch of folks getting back into leading on gear after an almost year hiatus up Givlers . They cursed me a bit, but all did incredibly. For the first time ever, my net contribution on sat. was to belay 1 pitch Did manage to lose 1 big hex behind the flake though. I kind of wondered how much loose shit is back there? Saw three people take falls on the first move off the deck though. The one from our party had protected the move but the other two decked from a few fee up. Good sized scratches and bruised egos only. Were just coming down for the afternoon when the rain hit. Felt really sorry for the two parties that had just headed up when we were heading down. Even saw one party mid-route in the downpour when we hit the car Braver folks than I to keep climbing. I would have sacrificied a nut or two and bailed. Sunday was relaxing. Watched some friends put up the Arch, Spaghetti Sauce, Dog-leg and some un-named 5.7 crack over at Alphabet. Then managed to figure out the crux on Hindquarters. 10- my Felt good to get it after getting rebuffed last year though. Anyone know what the semi-bolted pitch between the Arch and Spaghetti Sauce is and the rating? I took a look but wow, a little thin/empty for me trying to follow the bolt line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted June 21, 2005 Share Posted June 21, 2005 Is this a "what did you do this weekend" thread? I took purty pictures of a crazy storm in Portland: nice pax! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted June 21, 2005 Share Posted June 21, 2005 Managed to get 2 nice days in the Icicle, though sans parents. Took a bunch of folks getting back into leading on gear after an almost year hiatus up Givlers . They cursed me a bit, but all did incredibly. For the first time ever, my net contribution on sat. was to belay 1 pitch Did manage to lose 1 big hex behind the flake though. I kind of wondered how much loose shit is back there? Saw three people take falls on the first move off the deck though. The one from our party had protected the move but the other two decked from a few fee up. Good sized scratches and bruised egos only. Were just coming down for the afternoon when the rain hit. Felt really sorry for the two parties that had just headed up when we were heading down. Even saw one party mid-route in the downpour when we hit the car Braver folks than I to keep climbing. I would have sacrificied a nut or two and bailed. When we were up there a week ago we met all these people who were rapping off Givler's Crack on climber's right. One couple said their rope was too short and they had this mini epic. I don't remember the details. "Why'd you rap?" Answer: "There were slings right there". Twice, I had to say, "dude, don't you know there is a trivially easy walkoff on climber's left?". (I show them the book) "Oh! That's what those little arrows in the topo mean." Doh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted June 21, 2005 Share Posted June 21, 2005 Anyone know what the semi-bolted pitch between the Arch and Spaghetti Sauce is and the rating? I took a look but wow, a little thin/empty for me trying to follow the bolt line. Thats Bowling for Furniture, 5.11b. Tr'd the lower crux a few years back and it felt like 5.11 on a hot day. The upper moves looked harder to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted June 21, 2005 Share Posted June 21, 2005 Thats Bowling for Furniture, 5.11b. Tr'd the lower crux a few years back and it felt like 5.11 on a hot day. The upper moves looked harder to me. Wow, no wonder I got spanked !! I led to the first bulge, but got utterly stumped there and bailed left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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