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Posted

I'm including a pic comparing ranges of all the

cams I've checked out online.

 

From my drawing, I estimated the range gain vs

the standard BD C4 ranges:

 

- Metolius Supercams (1.1X C4)

- Trango MaxCam (2X C4)

- OP LinkCam (3X C4)

- did I miss other models?

 

Skepticals of those think:

- they'll walk

- work only in deep cracks

- are too complex to last

- may shatter in real world usage

 

So anybody has used those fancy extended

range cams yet?

Anybody has exploded one on a big

fall or a crooked placement?

Anybody has been bummed that the cam

doesn't fit because the crack is too

shallow?

 

All the stuff I read about those cams is

at best approximative, so real world user

feedback would be great...

 

Well, this is my last of the 3 topics for today smile.gif

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Posted

Small edit:

 

A friend of mine noted rightefully the chart shows

full open/close (I checked my .5 C4!), so the real

usable range is different.

 

As a matter of fact, the usable range is probably

estimated differently than for regular cams for those

awkward babies...

 

Another field test question!

 

What is the real usable range of those cams?

 

And why is that NOT published clearly somewhere ?!?!

Posted

I climbed on the prototype Linkcams one weekend at Smiff. They are pretty cool, but the triggers may be hard to get to with those with small hands. I didn't fall on it, but they do fit into shallow cracks pretty well. pretty smooth just pushing a cam basically wherever you want to in a crack.

Posted

My buddy has a Metolius one (not sure on the size... I guess only one of the three sizes are available currently)... he is really stoked on it. Gavin at Us Outdoor climbed on at least 2 of the 3 you listed... us outdoor advertises on this site so give him a call.

Posted

Word from Trango is their Max Cam won't be available till maybe July. I think it'll be a lot lighter than the OP. I've also heard it'll take some getting used to placing as one of the axles is offset.

Posted (edited)

Pretty cool:

 

I got a PM from Trango's Malcom Daly after

contacting them by mail. This is of interrest to

the large cams, and somewhat to the flexcam too.

 

> Max cams: There is a depth issue from

> the animation shown. Can this be answered?

> Do cracks need to be significantly bigger

> vs regular cams (ex: compare MaxCam #4 to

> BD C4 #4)

 

There will undoubetdly be a few rare instances where the depth becomes an issue. Read this thread for some outside perspective: http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1069115#1069115. Read maculated's comments because she's actually used them extensively.

 

That thread is pretty interresting:

 

- Offset cams seem trickier to place

- Linkcams have 2.5 exp. ratio, vs 1.6 for C4's etc.

(fuller list in the thread).

 

He also put a plug for Clyde Sole's cam charts.

 

http://clydesoles.com/ClydeSoles/Front/Information.html

Edited by sony

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