nalo Posted June 7, 2005 Posted June 7, 2005 I'll lead the sport pitches if you'll lead the trickier trad pitches, what do you say? thanks Quote
Alex Posted June 7, 2005 Posted June 7, 2005 There are no trickier trad pitches, ergo you get to lead it all Quote
nalo Posted June 7, 2005 Author Posted June 7, 2005 I know that there are no trad pitches that are tricky relative to the sport pitches, but arent there some trad pitches that are tricky relative to the other trad pitches? If not, I modify my original question, who wants to follow an inexperienced but strong climber up into the alpine unknown? Quote
Alex Posted June 7, 2005 Posted June 7, 2005 nalo, just kidding. The first real pitch, a long 5.9+ trad affair, is probably the toughest lead on the route. The very short 10a crack above the hanging belay after you turn the corner is just that: short. Good luck! Quote
nalo Posted June 7, 2005 Author Posted June 7, 2005 How you know all this? You've climbed the route, or just researched it extensively. And really, though, you can just french free through the bolted pitches if they're too hard... I'm not sure I can climb them either after climbing all the rock below them... Quote
Mr._Natural Posted June 7, 2005 Posted June 7, 2005 nalo, just a heads up the bolted sections are old bolt ladders, not sport pitches. there is a difference concerning clipping stances; they might not be ideal. enjoy the exposure coming around the prow of the buttress. a little more unsoliced beta: finding the start of the second bolt ladder I thought was a bit tricky. i went up directly and it was scary. i think there might be a or some bolts out right? anyway, enjoy. Quote
nalo Posted June 7, 2005 Author Posted June 7, 2005 Hey I'm all for beta, solicited or unsolicited. Even better, maybe, would be for someone who knows what's up with the route to volunteer to be my partner... I'm pretty sure I would be fine, but I really don't want to have a crappy time or worse up there. Quote
AlpineK Posted June 9, 2005 Posted June 9, 2005 I'll lead the sport pitches if you'll lead the trickier trad pitches, what do you say? thanks Ok, but we need a third partner to lead all the tricky scrambling to get to the base of the climb. Quote
nalo Posted June 10, 2005 Author Posted June 10, 2005 I've got a few of those big helical screws for securing your dog's rope in your backyard, think those'd make good protection? Quote
Mr._Natural Posted June 10, 2005 Posted June 10, 2005 only if you are passing mounties, aim for a soft spot. better save them for das toof. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.