Mt Mcloughlin and Mt Thielsen

[barjor]

I am heading south this weekend and was looking into doing Mt Mcloughlin on Saturday and Mt Thielsen on Sunday but the recent snow fall in combination with the avy accident is making me concerned.

 

Does anyone have any recent beta or other info that I could use. Do you think all the warm weather will make the snow consolidate before the weekend? Am I working my way up to a Darwin award if I just go for it.

Yes I know test the conditions when you get there and all that stuff.

 

If you have any thoughts or knowledge please share.

[gapertimmy]

Perhaps you could share what routes you are considering on the peaks and we could give you some info.

 

The standard route on McLoughlin for example is a simple slog up a ridge, most of which is in and out of trees.... a very safe route and note likely to avy.

 

I would say you would travel more avalanche areas on Thielsen, but i think this week's warm weather should have things fairly consolidated by this weekend.

[barjor]

The routes I plan to do is the standard slogs. Solo, no ropes and a dog.

 

Thanks

[gapertimmy]

do a search on both peaks, I posted some trip reports a while ago with pics of standard routes with similar snow conditions on them. the only issue with mcloughlin early season is getting lost in the thick woods to and from the ridgeline.

 

have fun, and post some picts if you can.... I would love to see what the NE face of mcloughlin looks like right now.

[kurthicks]

a regular Dan fido!

 

Those are fun routes. The pinnacle on Thielson may still be holding snow, so be prepared for that.

[snodger]

 

have fun, and post some picts if you can.... I would love to see what the NE face of mcloughlin looks like right now.

 

I second that, been wondering what its like down there, please post a TR and pictures!

[barjor]

Well this will not be much of a trip report

 

Saturday: Left 3:00 AM from Eugene heading to Medford. Parked at a gas station on I5 for about an hour watching the lightning storm hitting Mt Mclouglin, hoping the thunderstorm would end. Had a pretty bad summit fever after 3h in the car. Canceled the whole thing and went back and took a nap.

 

Sunday: Drove to Mt Thielsen on 138. Hiked the Mt Thielsen trail up to the ridge following boot tracks. Did a little bit of post holing. When I was about 500 feet from the summit the clouds cached up with me and it turned into a white out condition, turned around. Mt Thielsen looks allot cooler in real life then on photos.

 

10h in the car. 5h hiking. Not a great weekend. Hope next weekend in Bend with South and middle sister works out better.

 

[sweatinoutliquor]

Bummer man. At least you got to see the mountain up close. It's freaking impressive, eh? Chriznitch and I climbed it last november (I think) and the same thing happened... We had awesome conditions until we got about 30 mins from the pinnacle, and then total whiteout blew in. Did it look like this ?

[barjor]

Pretty close, not as much snow as on your trip. I can see why it is called the "lightning rod". I got one photo before the clouds blew in and I will post it tomorow.

[skeletor]

So in between the rain drops and the lightning, did you happen to notice what conditions on McLoughlin looked like?

[barjor]

I was never more then half a mile away from I5 and never left my car, but it looks like the snow level is about half way up the mountain. Now thats a snow report that is worth alot.