Hyperspace-leavenworth route info?

[eldiente]

Were thinking of getting on Hyperspace this weekend but are having trouble finding any good info. The book I have gives a rating and thats about it. Does anyone know anything about this route or have any ideas on where I could get some beta on this route. I'd love to hear from people that have climbed this route. Nate

[Alex]

What do you want to know?

[eldiente]

Anything would help. Pitch by pitch beta would be great but even a brief description would be of help. Are the cracks fairly continuous? I've heard rumors of harsh OW up top? Is this true?

[Alex]

p1 5.8

p2 Iconoclast thin but short 11a with good gear first half, but run out last 30 feet.

p3 9+/10a very enjoyable

p4 sustained thin technical 10b/c up, traverse left one corner system, up to corner climb direct (dirty 10-something) or climb the very strenuous overhanging right hand wall of corner (11b or ..?). I hung multiple times seconding this pitch thought this part.

p5 technical but not strenuous 5.10 climbing up flakes, chimney with pricker bushes, to a big bush clump below obvious crux chimneying pitch

p6 full 60m 5.10a/b chimney, capped with very hard(*) OW called "The Pressure Chamber". Either you will do it free, or aid it, there is no backing off at this point. Set up belay above chamber (10a climbnig still)

p7 5.10a initially to 5.8 traverse above enormous roof, up to second roof which goes easily at 9+, to 5.6ish climbing to the top

 

(*) conventional wisdom rates this 10d, your mileage may vary

 

This route gets done rarely and is the full deal. P6 will be dirty this early in the year. Have fun!

Edited May 24, 2005 by Alex

[TimL]

The route is good. I've done it a couple of times. Every pitch is good climibng. I think you can combine the first two pitches to the base of the 11a with some rope drag. The 11a "crux" 3rd pitch is not that bad. The 4th 10a pitch is nice and straight forward. The 5th 10c pitch is nice. The 6th 10c pitch is good, but then you have to switch corner systems to the left and your faced with climibng a hard looking face on the right, which I thought was mid 5.11, or a dirty corner on the left which I have never done. this brings you to a belay at a tree and the base of the "Pressure Chamber" which is 10d but super friggin hard for the grade and I would say is is a sandbag. The Pressure Chanmer pitch looks shorts, but conserve your gear lower down because it is a long pitch and the belay at the top takes small to mid size gear. The next pitch is 10- and is dirty. I think we brought a rack of doubles to 2 o 3 with one 4. I think the 4 was not needed. The pressure chamber takes small to medium gear. Use 60 meter ropes and bring lots of slings and draws.

[Peter_Puget]

p1 5.8

p2 Iconoclast thin but short 11a with good gear first half, but run out last 30 feet. Grainy rock

p3 9+/10a very enjoyable mostly low angle crack until turning a roof.

p4 sustained thin technical 10b/c up, traverse left one corner system, up to corner climb direct (dirty 10-something) or climb the very strenuous overhanging right hand wall of corner (11b or ..?). I hung multiple times seconding this pitch thought this part. I've always climbed the right wall..not 11b pro kind funky in places .. good chance of being damp this time of year

p5 technical but not strenuous 5.10 climbing up flakes, chimney with pricker bushes, to a big bush clump below obvious crux chimneying pitch might have damp spots

p6 full 60m 5.10a/b chimney, capped with very hard(*) OW called "The Pressure Chamber". Either you will do it free, or aid it, there is no backing off at this point. Set up belay above chamber (10a climbnig still) Wet?

p7 5.10a initially to 5.8 traverse above enormous roof, up to second roof which goes easily at 9+, to 5.6ish climbing to the top nice exposed finish

 

(*) conventional wisdom rates this 10d, your mileage may vary

 

This route gets done rarely and is the full deal. P6 will be dirty this early in the year. Have fun!

 

I'll be the only one to say it : there is better climbing elswhere.

Edited May 24, 2005 by Peter_Puget

[Alex]

ah true thats what we did, combine the first "2" pitches to One Tree Ledge. Hence my p2 is the 11a pitch to Iconoclast, which in reality is probably listed as p3 on the topo...

[TimL]

p1 5.8

p2 Iconoclast thin but short 11a with good gear first half, but run out last 30 feet. Grainy rock

p3 9+/10a very enjoyable mostly low angle crack until turning a roof.

p4 sustained thin technical 10b/c up, traverse left one corner system, up to corner climb direct (dirty 10-something) or climb the very strenuous overhanging right hand wall of corner (11b or ..?). I hung multiple times seconding this pitch thought this part. I've always climbed the right wall..not 11b pro kind funky in places .. good chance of being damp this time of year

p5 technical but not strenuous 5.10 climbing up flakes, chimney with pricker bushes, to a big bush clump below obvious crux chimneying pitch might have damp spots

p6 full 60m 5.10a/b chimney, capped with very hard(*) OW called "The Pressure Chamber". Either you will do it free, or aid it, there is no backing off at this point. Set up belay above chamber (10a climbnig still) Wet?

p7 5.10a initially to 5.8 traverse above enormous roof, up to second roof which goes easily at 9+, to 5.6ish climbing to the top

 

(*) conventional wisdom rates this 10d, your mileage may vary

 

This route gets done rarely and is the full deal. P6 will be dirty this early in the year. Have fun!

 

I'll be the only one to say it : there is better climbing elswhere.

 

like Index?

[Alex]

...this brings you to a belay at a tree and the base of the "Pressure Chamber" which is 10d but super friggin hard for the grade and I would say is is a sandbag..

 

this coming from the dude who says Carnival Crack is 10a

 

Peter_Puget might be right that there are other better hard routes, but its still worth doing

[Peter_Puget]

like Index?

 

Even in the Icicle. Is Midnight closed? I would prefer almost any six climb combination at Midnight.

 

eg:

Curtains

Sometimes a Perfect Notion

Flame/ROTC

In Search/Wild Traverse

 

Add in Easter/Stevens Pass

[TimL]

remeber A Dawg, we did Carnival Crack the day afterHS and I was really tired, but I still felt it was 10a.

 

HS is a good route with nice hard pitches stacked on top of each other which is not common for that area, so in terms of relating it to climbs in the area it is good, but if you compare it to other areas it is slightly above the average IMHO.

[TimL]

You cold knock off a bunch of good, harder crack routes at Midnight. But....Midnight is closed right now I believe, I was at Castle yesterday and I thought I saw raptor signs and I did hear a screech from one of those f*%king birds.

 

Peter - You forgot to add Easter Overhang. I thought it was super good. Same thing with WASP and the one next to it.

 

I think Midnight Rock, next to the Lower Town Wall at Index, is one of the best and highly concentrated crack climbing areas in Washington.

[Dr_Flush_Amazing]

remeber A Dawg, we did Carnival Crack the day afterHS and I was really tired, but I still felt it was 10a.

 

There is no way Carnival is 10a. If it is, I'm gonna have to hang up my shoes and call it a career.

 

Granted, the doctor ain't much of an OW climber, but 10a?

 

Please tell me you are joking - I don't think my ego could bare it.

[TimL]

I would like to say that I did it on TR cause I did not have wide gear. I would like to go back and lead it with wide gear. The lower face moves felt harder. The upper wide crack is just technique and really bomber once you figure it out. I am very comfortable saying it is 10a. It didn't feel that much harder than Moby Dick at the base of El Cap. The OW on Moby Dick is 5.8 or 5.9 4-6 inches for a long way with a 5.10 finger crack crux at the bottom. Carnival Crack felt a little harder than Moby Dick, but by far not nearly as long. A lot of it has to do with wide crack technique. The day before I did CC we did Hyperspace and the 10d Pressure Chamber killed me. I free climbed a little bit of th PC but aided a lot of it. It felt 10d or harder.

 

Granted on any OW like Moby Dick or Carnival Crack I've pulled way harder and expanded uch more effort than say a 5.12 or harder sport climb.

Edited May 24, 2005 by TimL

[layton]

don't get sucker up to the bolt anchors up left after the 4th pitch (past the 10/5.9 roof)...trend right.

[Szyjakowski]

CC... I am very comfortable saying it is 10a.

 

my friend fired PC of Hyperspace first try. He did not on CC...in fact he did not even lead it (tried)..He is a solid OW climber and says both grades are spot-on. Both climbs require different technique so one may feel harder if you are weak in that area....

[matt_m]

remeber A Dawg, we did Carnival Crack the day afterHS and I was really tired, but I still felt it was 10a.

 

HS is a good route with nice hard pitches stacked on top of each other which is not common for that area, so in terms of relating it to climbs in the area it is good, but if you compare it to other areas it is slightly above the average IMHO.

 

What other harder offwidths are there in L-worth? Need to start the training if I'm going to get the skeleton known as Pipeline out of my closet

[TimL]

Not a super OW but Easter Overhang was nice, as with some others at Midnight that look good. Damnation Crack.....

[specialed]

I'll be the only one to say it : there is better climbing elswhere.

 

Oh no there was a little bit of dirt on one hold

[layton]

if you do choose the go up above the off-route bolted anchor, you'll score some nice RP's althogh you'd be pretty fucked if ya did

[Bigwall]

Climbed HS in 2003. Great route. I'm a 5.10 leader. Led the Pressure Chamber - thought it was awesome. It is overhanging and I took a few rests, but the moves were very doable. The PC was easier than several 5.9 pitches on the Salathe'. Thought the pitches at mid-route (maybe P4 and 5?) were more difficult, and I was on the dull end - glad Ryan lead those.

[j_b]

TimL: you must have missed some holds in the pressure chamber. i remember almost doing exactly that the first time.

[RichardKorry]

I did RPM/Iconocast/HS ~15 years and I remember that as the second I found wearing a pack made the 10c chimney impossible.So if you bring a pack, have the second clip it to their harness. The route was fun and challenging climbing. I also remember having ticks drop off on my while belaying at a few spots. Yuck!

[wayne]

Belay WARNING Hyperspace!