Southern Pickets

[none_dup1]

Andy:

A friend and I went into the Southern Pickets via the Goodell Creek approach in the third week of July 1987. I suspect the "trail" is better now. We found the mountains after 2.5 days of bushwhacking in a driving rain and thick clouds. I'll never forget the sight when the clouds finally parted and the peaks were right across from us. Totally made up for the effort to get there.

We climbed McMillan Spire, W. Peak, W. Ridge (II Class 3-4) as a warm up, then took a day off instead of climbing Inspiration. We should have done it, but it was nice to nap in the sun and read. The next day we climbed the Chopping Block via the N.E. Ridge (II 5.5). This required crossing the notorious Barrier. It went fine, but the Barrier can be a pain. The Chopping Block was great fun and I recommend it.

We left the next day and made it to the car in one fairly long slog. My partner says his knees have never been the same since that trip.

My take is that it's worth going in there, but try to travel reasonably light and give yourself some time not only to get in and out, but also to enjoy the area once you've arrived. There are probably more people making the effort these days, but you will likely still find this to be a wild and relatively lonesome place.

Have fun!

John Sharp

[Andy_Bourne]

I'd like to put out a couple questions for people who have been to the Southern Picket range. (I imagine Lowell Skoog would be a good person for this)

When is a good time of summer to head in there? What concerns are there as far as early, middle and late season? Bergschrund problems? I am basically trying to find what considerations there might be in going out there, what to plan for.

I want to try a route on Inspiration. I'd like to try something else while out there and if anyone has suggestions on a logical choice given an attempt on Inspiration, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks.

[forrest_m]

My friend Marshall and I climbed the E. Ridge of Inspiration over 4th of July weekend in 1996. This is one of the best routes I've done in the cascades, the kind of thing that reminds you why alpine climbing is worth the suffering. The pitches on the ridge are fabulous - super exposed, challenging (solid 5.9) and great rock.

I'd say that early summer is better than late (especially this year) because the more of the upper basins that are snow-covered, the better, both for easy travel and water at camping sites. '96 was an average snow year and there was no significant 'schrund problem getting to the climb. The crevasses on the glacier were already mostly open. (We blew the descent and instead of coming down the W. Ridge route descended to the Deg.-Insp. col and had a very difficult time getting back across the 'schrund-crevasses there. This sucked, be sure to get the descent right!)

The climbers trail from the end of the Goodell creek (abandoned) logging road up to treeline is actually pretty good, but it fades into the brush the last thousand feet. The problem is finding it again on the way down. We ended up paralleling a drainage downhill sharply to the south of where we knew the trail to be, then, once sure we had descended enough, cut straight across the hillside to find the trail. Watch out for getting sucked down the drainages, they all cliff out down low. The trail is definately worth the effort it takes to find!

One final note, don't be too ambitious about your plan, many people go in there planning to "knock off" multiple peaks, but usually after the approach and one climb, people are too beat to make a second attempt! Good luck.

On a related topic, does anyone have any experience approaching the other side of the Southern Pickets, i.e. N. Face of Inspiration? Are there any tricks, or do you just have to resign yourself to the hateful bushwack? (Or wait for a heavy snow year - in august '99 [the super snowpack year] we descended Access Creek from the Northern Pickets and had glissadable snow on avalanche debris almost all the way down to the Big Beaver trail!!!)

[none_dup1]

I concur with Forrest on several of his points. As he points out (and Nelson/Potterfield noted in their first book), you have to be realistic about how many climbs you're going to do. I wish we had done three, but we only had energy for two. Build in rest days if you can, and if people at home are expecting you at a certain date and time, make sure they are aware that you may be a little late.

Also, we found a few of those cliffs and gullies on the way down. We eventually hooked up with the trail, which as Forrest notes is better as you get closer to the car. But we were using the compass and some colorful language at several points.

Have fun!

[Tod]

Expect to go light and push hard in order to get into the Southern Pickets. If you go with this expectation the approach is still a bit messy, but not that painful.

Over a three-day weekend (4th of July) in 1992, a group of three of us climbed the West Ridge of Inspiration. Our approach was via the climbers trail just after "over n' up" creek (which I believe is the creek just before Terror Creek). You head east/NE out of Goodell Creek, then hit treeline and head north. The trail was a steep root-grabbing trail that faded away as we neared treeline. There was very little navigating through the glacier and no problems with the bergschrund or the moat at the access gully/chimney for the West Ridge.

This year because of the low snow year I would expect that the glacier would be much more broken up by mid summer, but since it is not all that steep (or big), making your way through it may not be a too much of a problem (i.e. you’ll probably have more navigating and crevasse hopping, but not impassible). Late spring/early summer would probably be great conditions…. I can’t think of any other concerns other than the weather is VERY temperamental in the Pickets. It will change dramatically within an hour if it wants to (with very little to no warning).

The gully/chimney up to the West Ridge of Inspiration can be a bit rocky if wet, but otherwise is a straightforward climb with some technical rock and some scrambling. We ended up taking the variation at the top of the ridge and went out onto the north face. It was a class IV variation but the view down the north face was very impressive. When we descended it was pouring down rain so all of the rain (and dislodged rocks) were sent directly down the gully. It was a very interesting (and hazardous) descent as we rappelled through waterfalls while dodging suitcase size boulders.

Forrest: As for making your way to the north side of the Southern Pickets, it seems like an approach from the south (same approach as above) and then traversing your way to and over the ridge east of McMillan Spires is probably your best bet. This will gain you access to the north side without having to deal with the long hike and bush-whacking up through Access Creek. Dealing with traversing around from the north side of McMillan creek around to the south side looks like a climb on it’s own (pretty fun looking if you plan on it, but would take some time). Last year a buddy of mine and I traversed from Whatcom Pass, over Challenger and Fury and then headed out Access Creek. We were trying to do the full Picket traverse, but the weather didn’t help and we bailed after climbing the North Ridge/Buttress of Fury. The traverse from Fury to the north side of McMillan Spires (our intent) looked very broken up. Definitely looked easier coming from the south.

Tod

 

[JasonG]

Tod-

How was the north ridge/buttress of Fury? Good climbing?, worth the effort? It is a route that I've often wondered about . . .

Thanks much for any info.

[Tod]

Heinrich-

The North Ridge/Buttress of Fury is an excellent climb. Very classic and for me rates up in the caliber of N Ridge of Forbidden and N Ridge of Stuart. It's about as long as N Ridge of Stuart and about as easy/hard as N Ridge of Forbidden.

The actually technical difficulty of the route is not that hard. I would say the rock was mostly Class 4+ to low fifth with some mid 5th sprinkled in. The exposure is descent and the setting is intense. We spent quite a bit of time doing running belays. Lot's of potential for rockfall though. Overall the rock is not bad, but there are some loose sections lower on the route. We ended up breathing on this one rock and it dislodged itself and cut our rope by 25'. The top 500 feet are incredible. A very steep snow arete with a 2000' runout on either side.

The hardest parts of the climb for us were the approach (of course), and the weight of carrying over ALL of our gear. If I were to do it again, I would probably try to either bring less rock gear, or cache our gear at Luna Lake and come back for it after doing the route.

If you have the time, the route is definitely worth doing. You'll spend more time getting to and leaving the Central Pickets than you will actuallly on the route. There are not many (if any) places in the lower 48 that you can be so remote and have such a spectacular climb....

Tod

[forrest_m]

We walked past the base of the N. Butt of Fury in '99 (the record snow year) and there were huge, Alaska-style double cornices on much of the route, especially the last thousand feet. Needless to say we abandoned that plan...

It looks like a great climb, be sure you have the beta figured out for the descent because it's long and roundabout getting back to Luna Pass from the summit. Regarding the carryover, I think if one was fast, it would be possible to camp at Luna Pass, descend to the base of the route in the morning, climb the route in a day with light packs and return to luna pass by nightfall. Not having to carry all your gear over would make this more feasible and this would minimize the back-tracking.

[pms]

I just wanted to second Forrest's suggestions for the Fury climb. I should also add that I've not done the climb, but think Forest's suggestions are right on. Know the descent, and camp and climb from Luna. Jim Nelson

[Ziff]

I would recommend coming in from Access for the North Butt of Fury (not as bad as it sounds - the 11 miles of trail is far worse than the bushwack!) and camping at the high col and doing a round trip in one day from there. Doable in four days round trip from the road (with a boat ride) if the weather cooperates.

[Darren]

Does anyone have more information on crossing "the Barrier"?

Also, I'm interested in hearing about any experiences with Mt. Degenhardt, both technical aspects and the overall experience. I was thinking of doing the West Ridge? Is this a feasible destination in combination with McMillan Spire for a four day trip? Would those who have done this route before recommend it? I've read what Becky has to say with regards to both of these topics so any additional, first hand knowledge would be greatly appreciated.