Rap anchors on snow creek?

[bigbro]

I've heard rumors of rap anchors near the top-out on outer space that supposedly link to the base, is this true and if so can anybody clue me in as to where they are? I've always walked off, but I want to link up some routes for training.

[cman]

we did iconoclast, to the left of OS, last year and my partner was saying the same thing. there were enough anchors and fixed slings in that area to rap down but it was hardly straightforward from what we saw. unless someone has set up some more anchors it did not look like something i would recommend.

 

also i am not sure where you would start, i assume at the top of the bolted routes to the left of OS.

[bigbro]

Thanks for the beta cman, I guess it is an urban myth after all!!

[Alpinfox]

There are rap anchors all the way down. The first anchor is about 40ft to the left and well below the OS topout. It looks like it would be a little intimidating to get to the first anchor from the top of SCW, especially since that spot can be a little dirty, but I saw some folks do it last time I was on OS.

 

I don't know why people dislike the walk off so much. It's really not that bad.

[Bug]

There are also rumors of a rap route down the slabs to the right of OS. You can see slings on trees from the bottom but only to about halfway up.

I don't know tho as I always walk off.

[dberdinka]

Whats up with the rap anchors about 40' below the ledge at the bottom of the first headwall crack pitch?

 

Also near the top of Orbit where things ease of there is a mystery anchor consisting of two 3/8" bolts off to the left. Who knows what the hell thats for.

[tomtom]

What's up with the rap anchors on the third pitch of Outer Space 30 ft above Two Tree Ledge? Bright red slings.

[Szyjakowski]

What's up with the rap anchors on the third pitch of Outer Space 30 ft above Two Tree Ledge? Bright red slings.

that shiz is probably for RPM.

[dberdinka]

What's up with the rap anchors on the third pitch of Outer Space 30 ft above Two Tree Ledge? Bright red slings.

 

Those are infact bail slings from climbers who realized they were off route. The "real" third pitch of OS begins about 20' left of the crackline you climbed.

 

What you did is apparently harder, or at least much pumpier.

[Szyjakowski]

oh wait...yeah those slings...COOL somewhat scary (flakes)variation to traverse pitch puts you at stepout on the pitch. A must do for anyone bored with standard way. Those slings make your gear "feel" Bomber!

[tomtom]

What's up with the rap anchors on the third pitch of Outer Space 30 ft above Two Tree Ledge? Bright red slings.

 

Those are infact bail slings from climbers who realized they were off route. The "real" third pitch of OS begins about 20' left of the crackline you climbed.

 

What you did is apparently harder, or at least much pumpier.

Like I said, I've never climbed it before and we only had Kramer with us. I climbed to the rap slings, so it couldn't be that hard (protected well), and I got past it by A0ing it up to the alcove. The crack 20 ft to the left was wet. The friction in between looked pretty slim for protection.

[dberdinka]

Like I said, I've never climbed it before and we only had Kramer with us.

 

I think it's completely understandable that route finding would be difficult using Kramer's latest guide. It does a great job of describing small crags and a horrible job of describing the longer routes.

[chucK]

First time I climbed OS I ended up climbing that corner. I remember being scared at a balancy step across that was not especially well-protected, and the rest being quite fun. It's certainly more direct than the standard way. In the white Kramar guide it identifies it as RPM.

 

I've often planned of going that way the "next time" but usually end up taking the usual standard sucky* start for some reason or other.

 

* one scary boulder move followed by a bunch of drag-inducing hiking.

[Rad]

Was just up there discussing/climbing this with my partner the other day so the details are still fresh in mind:

 

The roof + corner that leads to the red slings on the rock spike on pitch three is what I did my first time too. It is well-protected but very pumpy. I found it harder than the traverse, but not 5.10. It goes straight up from the tree that's on the ledge.

 

I thought this WAS the standard/Becky way to go. I do think it's better than the options to the left. These options start about 20ft left of the tree. One goes right around a small bulge on a handcrack/layback (5.9 one move wonder). The left goes up flakes just left of the bulge (haven't climbed but doesn't look bad). Both join together after 20ft in the easy corner system that merges back with the spot where you see Strickland in this photo.

 

Here is a good picture of Strickland (from the gallery) that shows the steeper option past the slings on the rock spike. It's a good one. His last piece is where the red slings are on the rock spike.

 

Enjoy!

 

WS on OS p3 straight up from the tree

 

[Szyjakowski]

In the white Kramar guide it identifies it as RPM.

 

This RPM pitch starts to the far left on 2tree and follows a couple bolts to the chimney feature to the left side of the "bullit" feature before finally ending on ledges below 5.6 pedestal pitch of OS. Great pitch...needs more traffic but RPM has some reputation for being runout or something. could be the sweet knob tying pitches on the shield.

[bigbro]

I just did Iconoclast for the 1st time a few days ago. If anyone cares . . . every pitch has fixed anchors and could easily be rapped to the ground. It could probably be done with a single 60m although I'm not sure about the last rap off 1 tree ledge. The only catch would be finding a fixed anchor at the top of SC wall to link up with Iconoclast. We scouted but found nothing other than the trees set way back.

[Szyjakowski]

That is because it is standard to walk off. Rapping ususally happens only in retreat mid-route.

[Peter_Puget]

I bet it is quicker just to walk off. You guys make the walk off sound like some challenge. Bring a pair of sneakers and it's quick and easy.

[Szyjakowski]

I bet its quicker to walk off twice.