Climbing Etiquette question

[RJB]

I was wondering what the general feeling is toward removing "fixed" gear like nuts/cams stuck on routes. I saw some today but didn't remove it. Is this stuff up for grabs for someone who wants to put in the work? I know that the stuff has an unknown history and should not be trusted. I just want to know if it's cool to try fishing it out.

[Squid]

Alpinetrash is yours for the taking, RJB.

[Jason_Martin]

Generally speaking, if it is clear that the gear has been abandoned and it's not completely jammed, then it's yours. However, there are definately some situations where you should leave the gear.

 

1) Fixed Ropes -- Often ropes are left to rot, but there are cases, particularly on aid routes, where a party will put up a rope and then return the next day. Usually they will be around somewhere, so you should be able to figure it out.

 

2) Project Draws -- This is a little less clear. A party or an individual may have left draws on a difficult sport route because they have been returning a lot to work on it. Unfortunately they are not necessarily returning every day so it's not so easy to find out what's going on. You should use your judgement here. Don't just strip a route the first time you see this. If the draws are on the route for months and nobody appears to be using them...then maybe. No matter what, ask around first in this situation.

 

3) Food or Gear Cache -- This obviously depends on where you are. Use your judgement. Don't take anything that could belong to an expedition on the mountain with you.

 

Jason

[thelawgoddess]

fixed gear that isn't meant to be fixed is generally free-for-all.

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

 

2) Project Draws -- This is a little less clear. A party or an individual may have left draws on a difficult sport route because they have been returning a lot to work on it. Unfortunately they are not necessarily returning every day so it's not so easy to find out what's going on. You should use your judgement here. Don't just strip a route the first time you see this. If the draws are on the route for months and nobody appears to be using them...then maybe. No matter what, ask around first in this situation.

 

Even in cases where draws are apparently hanging for months, it's best to leave them (unless you've got consensus & permission where appropriate to remove them). At Smith, for example, many routes on the Aggro Wall have fixed draws, and the draws on Go Dog Go have essentially become fixed; also any route Ian Caldwell is working will probably have draws on it for a long, long time. Other areas such as Maple Canyon and Red Rocks have fixed draws on extremely popular or difficult-to-clean routes. As Mr. Martin said, use that judgment, and, unless there's a real compelling reason to take them down, leave fixies fixed!

 

The sport climbing community thanx you!

[badvoodoo]

Not to incite anything, just purely out of interest (since I don't climb hard enough to encounter "fixed draws")... Does this mean these routes are no longer redpointed because the draws are all pre-set? Or do people who want the redpoint generally clip their own draws under the fixed ones if the hanger allows?

[Dru]

 

All fixed gear belongs to me. Please send any fixed gear you remove to myself as I am its rightful owner. Thanks.

[jkrueger]

Does this mean these routes are no longer redpointed because the draws are all pre-set?

When climbing sport, it is generally accepted that a send on hanging draws still counts as a redpoint. It's not full value, per se, but a redpoint just the same.

 

Or do people who want the redpoint generally clip their own draws under the fixed ones if the hanger allows?

That would be silly.

[badvoodoo]

Does this mean these routes are no longer redpointed because the draws are all pre-set?

When climbing sport, it is generally accepted that a send on hanging draws still counts as a redpoint. It's not full value, per se, but a redpoint just the same.

Ah, see, I was under the impression this was referred to as a "pinkpoint", but if that's the case, then so be it.

 

Or do people who want the redpoint generally clip their own draws under the fixed ones if the hanger allows?

That would be silly.

That's what I thought, but no accounting for what some people will do for a technicality in climbing...

[Mike_G]

Yes, I believe that 'pinkpoint' is technically correct. But then again, if you don't care, it doesn't matter. Just climb it, enjoy it, and, if you're going to share about it, be honest about what you did. Most likely, no one else will care too deeply anyway.

 

I'd rather say I pinkpointed a route, anyway! Sounds much more manly!

[catbirdseat]

 

All fixed gear belongs to me. Please send any fixed gear you remove to myself as I am its rightful owner. Thanks.

A post right out of RC.com.

[RJB]

 

All fixed gear belongs to me. Please send any fixed gear you remove to myself as I am its rightful owner. Thanks.

 

I have found alot of your gear! I will ship it back to you soon. Please send me $250 to cover my shipping costs.

 

But seriously, thanks for all the replys.

[Dru]

If you PM me with your bank account number and an example of your signature, I'll get it direct deposited into your account

[RJB]

PM sent, both my checking and savings account numbers. Please make you deposit into the checking account. I am living off the interest in my saving account and do not want the additional intrest incom tax penalty.

[Dru]

Hey wait, this bank of yours is in Nigeria!

[RJB]

Yes, thanks you. My name is Rodger and I live in Nigeria. I have inherited a large sum of moneys from my father who was a wealthy international business owner. The money is in an ofshore account. I am looking for a business partener in the US to set up a bank account for me. For this service I will give you 2 million dollars.