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RJB

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Everything posted by RJB

  1. Climb: Mt Rainier-Emmons Date of Climb: 7/23/2005 Trip Report: Set out from the white river camp ground parking lot at 9am and headed up for glacier basin. The weather was warm and sunny, just shorts and a t-shirt for modesty:) The marmots were whistling in the upper basin and a slight breeze made perfect hiking conditions. We stopped at the base of interglacier and swapped out what was left of our stinky city water for some fresh cold glacier run-off. Some pretty big crevasses open in the middle right of the glacier but they are esaly passable either on the far right or straight up the middle. From the top of inter glacier we got a good view of the emmons route. The boot track is quite easy to see. We arrived at camp Shurman around 5pm and set up camp on the snow field. Made dinner and water for the morning then hit the rack. Got up at zero hour and had a hot cup of joe and put on the snivle gear. Temps were in the high 20's and not much wind. Left camp at around 1 am roped up with cramps on. My legs kept trying to kick my lazy ass for not training more bettween mountains. My ass just laughed and demanded to be carried on to the summit. With almost a full moon and a clear sky headlamps were optional, but a good idea for the leader. I prefered to leave mine off. The sun started creaping over the horizon in the 5 o'clock hour and painted the sky with the promise of warmth. The jagged outline of the Stuart range brought back memories of my trip there. I have a pic in my photo gallery but can't seem to get the link to work. I'll fix it later. There was not much of a "boot track" more like foot prints spread around at random. Trying to match a track to my stride helped to pass the time. The snow was firm and quite easy to walk on. Route finding was not a problem either. Most of the crevasses still had decent snow bridges over them with only a couple narrow "jumpers". We reached the summit by 8:00. I was ready to head down soon after the summit pictures but the guys wanted to look around some more. The only thing I wanted to look at was the back of the outhouse door back at shurman. The snow got pretty soft on the way down. Around 11,000 feet my cramps were balling every third step so I decided to take them off. We managed to get in a few good glissades on the last 1000 feet down to the camp. After a short sit in the little brown house we packed up and hit the trail back to galcier basin. The last three miles of the trail seemed to take forever and the balls of my feet hurt pretty bad. limped back to the truck by 5:30 pm and swapped the boots for dry cotton socks and my mocks. After a few handshakes and back slaps I jumped in the truck only to find I had left my lights on! Some cool guy on a Mt bike that spoke in broken english found me some jumper cables. Man that guy was a life saver!!!! Managed to drive to packwood without falling asleep. Purchased some highly caffinated beverages at the local am/pm and got back on the road. The drinks did the trick and I landed safely back in Vancouver by 10 pm. All in all a perfect weekend! Gear Notes: Cramps needed above shurman. antibott plates a must for decent. Rope is a good idea but route can be soloed safely (with permit) Double Check your LIGHTS before you leave the parking lot!!! Approach Notes: Road work on WA-123 One lane road with traffic control light.
  2. I summited yesterday on the emmons rt. I did get water freezing in the tube without the insulation (and it was a warm night). Blowing water out of the tube works ok. Better have a couple of nalgenes for backup.
  3. RJB

    Moldy Bladder

    I have never had that much mould in my bladder, but I do get black stuff in the drinking tube if I don't dry it out right away. To clean it out I just use hydrogen peroxide straight (no water). dump it in and let it foam away!! A light scrubbing will loosen up stubborn stains. The best part is once you rinse it out with fresh water it leaves no odor or taste.
  4. Safe sects is reccomended..
  5. I am by no means a solid 5.10 climber anymore, but here is my .02 Climbing in the higher grades requires good form or super human strength. Climbing alot is good. In your climbing, work on being focused and precise. Good footwork is one thing that can improve your climbing. Place your feet exactally instead of slapping them around alot. Climb with better climbers! You are more likely to learn from someone better than you. Watch how they move, the way they use hand and foot holds, place gear, ect..
  6. RJB

    rust remover

    Naval Jelly
  7. Welcome back to Portland by the way.
  8. Does it matter? But yes I am a woman and no I don't want to date you. Yes it would also matter to my wife, and you probably would want to date me if you met me. That's why I don't hang out alone with other women.
  9. True It depends on the trip. Thursday I cold have used them for sure. Had good snow from the summit all the way back to the truck. If they had been along on my Stuart climb base camp would have been as far as they went.
  10. I'd like to hear if anyone has checked it out lately.
  11. Nobody? Not even to flame me? Dru how about some spray?
  12. Sounds pretty bad. I think you should send it to me so I can dispose of it.
  13. Has anyone used these? I just picked up a used pair (ebay). I think they are what I am looking for. Light, short, work with my Sportivas. My hams are getting tired of glissading.
  14. Man! That looks SWEET!!! Thanks for shareing the pics
  15. High hopes for a clear day. Weather building through the pearly gates. Tears of joy at the spectacular summit view! A look back on the way down.
  16. After checking the weekend weather report I decided to try to climb Hood this morning before work. Didn't make the decision till about 9pm last night. I quickly layed out all my gear, packed it up, and hit the sack. Being a noob to Mt climbing and never having been up before I decided to get a later start instead of asending by head lamp. I left Vancouver at 4am and arrived at the lodge around 5:20am. The top of the mountain was clearly visible! I was Stoked! Walked around for a few minits wondering if I needed a snowpass to park till I spotted a sign that sayed passes were needed till April 30. Cool! Filled out the registration form. Grabed my gear and hit the trail @ 5:50am From the Silcox hut area I could see a line of climbers jammed up on the hogs back. I figured they would clear by the time I got up there. After 45mins they had not moved. I passed a few climbers comming down that had gone as far as crater rock. All complained of "soft snow". It seemed fine to me, as long as you did'nt stomp through the thin crust. Once I gained the kitchen the weather started closing in and the wind picked up. Visibility was down to 50 yards or so. Met a BIG group from a Mazama's class. Must have been over twenty. Some summited, others decided to bag it. I donned my crampons just before the shrund and headed around the hole someone fell through last week. The pearly gates seemed to be in good shape, although I have nothing to compare to. Visibility dropped to about 20 feet. I stopped to put on my parka. The snow and freezing rain stung bare skin. I was not sure how far the summit was or where. I wondered how smart it was to be there alone, but my desire to reach the top drove me on. I followed the boot tracks till they stopped. "That seemed to short" I thought. Exploring around I could find no other tracks or higher ground. Only the large cornice lip to the north was higher. I stayed back from the edge by the last of the boot tracks. Snapped a few self portraits, took a drink and bailed at 11:05. Visability was now down to nothing and the ice was driving into my eyes. I cussed myself for leaving my glasses in the truck. I grabbed the trusty compass for a bearing. It sayed south was off to my left. "no that can't be right" I thought. "that's what I get for buying a compass at WalMart". "Well it's worth a try!" Step by step SLOWLY feeling my way down while wiping ice from my scorched eyes. All at once the soup cleared for a second and I saw the route down. "I knew my trusty compass would never fail me" (it was dead on). Plung stepping down at a fast pace through the gates I picked up speed. Having a point of reference sure helps your balance. I slowed and gingerly crossed the bergshrund and dropped onto the hogs back again. The group I had passed was still there so I snapped a group photo for them and told them to visit this site for the pic and other great info for new climbers. Leaving them with one eye on my watch I shed my crampons and starded glissading. Made it back to the truck by 1pm signed out and got to work by 2:30!
  17. I am heading up today. I will let you know what I find.
  18. Have not heard any TR for this week. Hard to believe nobody has been up. I may be heading up in the next 48 hrs. Anyone been up there in the past day or two? How is the snow? Any info would be great.
  19. Yes, thanks you. My name is Rodger and I live in Nigeria. I have inherited a large sum of moneys from my father who was a wealthy international business owner. The money is in an ofshore account. I am looking for a business partener in the US to set up a bank account for me. For this service I will give you 2 million dollars.
  20. PM sent, both my checking and savings account numbers. Please make you deposit into the checking account. I am living off the interest in my saving account and do not want the additional intrest incom tax penalty.
  21. Try using LockTite 271 (red) on the nuts. It will not stop the determined, but at a min. breaking torque of 160 foot pounds it will stop the average guy without a torch. It also seals and prevents corosion between the nut and the bolt.
  22. I have found alot of your gear! I will ship it back to you soon. Please send me $250 to cover my shipping costs. But seriously, thanks for all the replys.
  23. RJB

    Hey Mike Layton:

    Don't cry over spilled MILF.
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