Blake Posted April 18, 2005 Share Posted April 18, 2005 WC's new passive pro are lighter than anything else out there, but nearly $12 each! Anyone see themselves getting a set for alpine, in addition to whatever they use already? http://www.gearexpress.biz/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=G&Product_Code=9320 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 18, 2005 Share Posted April 18, 2005 UK climbing equipment manufacturers are poised to increase their trade prices to retailers as a result of increased raw material costs. Some manufacturers have been trying to absorb the price hikes but it seems the break point has been reached and updated trade price lists have been distributed to retailers who are preparing to up prices to the end user. It seems that the cause of the price increase in down to supply and demand. Since trade barriers with China were relaxed the demand for metals from its booming economy has reduced stocks and forced prices up. I bet they will be cheaper if MEC carries them, though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted April 18, 2005 Share Posted April 18, 2005 Neat, but not what I would call full strength at 4-6 kN. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 18, 2005 Share Posted April 18, 2005 They're giant RPs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted April 19, 2005 Share Posted April 19, 2005 Aid, maybe. Alpine, no. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted April 19, 2005 Share Posted April 19, 2005 taint big enough either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted April 19, 2005 Share Posted April 19, 2005 They're a joke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 19, 2005 Share Posted April 19, 2005 Try before you fly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted April 19, 2005 Share Posted April 19, 2005 I have a set of these for alpine: I bought them at www.gearshack.co.uk You can carry only three of them and have all sizes. I usually only carry (from left to right), #1,3 and 5. I throw in a #5 BD and a #7 BD for good measure. Also put in a pink and red tricam and Camalots, you have your self a nice neat little alpine rack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted April 19, 2005 Share Posted April 19, 2005 ????? I'm guessing the weight difference between 3 double dong nuts and 6 single headed nuts is mimimal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted April 20, 2005 Share Posted April 20, 2005 Actually, the double dongs weigh in alot more, but a "set" ie. a full range of sizes weighs in less than a set of standard nuts and 3 of these + 2 BD's take up a lot less room that a set of standard nuts. The superlights look more like RP's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Natural Posted April 20, 2005 Share Posted April 20, 2005 yeah but you only get three placements out of three double dongs, but six out of six stoppers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted April 20, 2005 Share Posted April 20, 2005 I also put in a few BD stoppers, as stated in my previous post. I've NEVER ran out of gear(knock on wood). We are talking light alpine here (I think). If REAL rock climbing is involved I just bring a full set of stoppers. If a little 5th class here and there, I bring the double dongs. My usually philosophy is that you can make whatever you have with you work. I can't even remember though the last time I've used more than 5-6 stoppers on a pitch, unless it was aid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted April 20, 2005 Share Posted April 20, 2005 The CAMP bolo doubles are the same weight or lighter as a SINGLE BD stopper in the small sizes and just slightly heavier in the larger sizes. You could carry as many of these as BD stoppers and have doubles or triples of every size to boot. The only problem is that I think there are a few size gaps in them, that's why I throw in a #5 and #7 BD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Natural Posted April 20, 2005 Share Posted April 20, 2005 Actually, the double dongs weigh in alot more... The CAMP bolo doubles are the same weight or lighter as a SINGLE BD stopper in the small sizes and just slightly heavier in the larger sizes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark_Husbands Posted April 21, 2005 Share Posted April 21, 2005 i want to see a double dong SLCD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted April 21, 2005 Share Posted April 21, 2005 Actually, the double dongs weigh in alot more... The CAMP bolo doubles are the same weight or lighter as a SINGLE BD stopper in the small sizes and just slightly heavier in the larger sizes. The double dongs weigh a lot more than the superlights, not the BD's. Sorry for the confusion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted April 22, 2005 Share Posted April 22, 2005 I checked a set out and plan on getting one or two sets - they are great, 4-6k is fine for what they are free or aid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted April 22, 2005 Share Posted April 22, 2005 I checked a set out and plan on getting one or two sets - they are great, 4-6k is fine for what they are free or aid. It all comes down to your comfort level. Most ropes have an impact force of 7-9 kN when tested with an 80 Kg test load. I weigh a bit more than that and would want a bit stronger pro in the rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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