Superlight rocks - stoppers

[Blake]

WC's new passive pro are lighter than anything else out there, but nearly $12 each! Anyone see themselves getting a set for alpine, in addition to whatever they use already?

 

 

http://www.gearexpress.biz/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=G&Product_Code=9320

[Dru]

UK climbing equipment manufacturers are poised to increase their trade prices to retailers as a result of increased raw material costs. Some manufacturers have been trying to absorb the price hikes but it seems the break point has been reached and updated trade price lists have been distributed to retailers who are preparing to up prices to the end user. It seems that the cause of the price increase in down to supply and demand. Since trade barriers with China were relaxed the demand for metals from its booming economy has reduced stocks and forced prices up.

 

I bet they will be cheaper if MEC carries them, though

[fenderfour]

Neat, but not what I would call full strength at 4-6 kN.

[Dru]

They're giant RPs.

[tomtom]

Aid, maybe.

 

Alpine, no.

[layton]

taint big enough either

[catbirdseat]

They're a joke.

[Dru]

Try before you fly.

[Bill_Simpkins]

I have a set of these for alpine:

I bought them at www.gearshack.co.uk

You can carry only three of them and have all sizes.

I usually only carry (from left to right), #1,3 and 5.

I throw in a #5 BD and a #7 BD for good measure.

Also put in a pink and red tricam and Camalots,

you have your self a nice neat little alpine rack.

[tomtom]

?????

 

I'm guessing the weight difference between 3 double dong nuts and 6 single headed nuts is mimimal.

[Bill_Simpkins]

Actually, the double dongs weigh in alot more, but a "set" ie. a full range of sizes weighs in less than a set of standard nuts and 3 of these + 2 BD's take up a lot less room that a set of standard nuts.

The superlights look more like RP's.

[Mr._Natural]

yeah but you only get three placements out of three double dongs, but six out of six stoppers.

[Bill_Simpkins]

I also put in a few BD stoppers, as stated in my previous post.

I've NEVER ran out of gear(knock on wood).

We are talking light alpine here (I think).

If REAL rock climbing is involved I just bring a full set of stoppers. If a little 5th class here and there, I bring the double dongs.

My usually philosophy is that you can make whatever you have with you work.

I can't even remember though the last time I've used more than 5-6 stoppers on a pitch, unless it was aid.

[Bill_Simpkins]

The CAMP bolo doubles are the same weight or lighter as a SINGLE BD stopper in the small sizes and just slightly heavier in the larger sizes.

You could carry as many of these as BD stoppers and have doubles or triples of every size to boot.

The only problem is that I think there are a few size gaps in them, that's why I throw in a #5 and #7 BD.

[Mr._Natural]

Actually, the double dongs weigh in alot more...

 

The CAMP bolo doubles are the same weight or lighter as a SINGLE BD stopper in the small sizes and just slightly heavier in the larger sizes.

 

 

[Mark_Husbands]

i want to see a double dong SLCD.

[Bill_Simpkins]

Actually, the double dongs weigh in alot more...

 

The CAMP bolo doubles are the same weight or lighter as a SINGLE BD stopper in the small sizes and just slightly heavier in the larger sizes.

 

 

 

The double dongs weigh a lot more than the superlights, not the BD's. Sorry for the confusion.

[JosephH]

I checked a set out and plan on getting one or two sets - they are great, 4-6k is fine for what they are free or aid.

[fenderfour]

I checked a set out and plan on getting one or two sets - they are great, 4-6k is fine for what they are free or aid.

 

It all comes down to your comfort level. Most ropes have an impact force of 7-9 kN when tested with an 80 Kg test load. I weigh a bit more than that and would want a bit stronger pro in the rock.