wayne Posted November 20, 2002 Posted November 20, 2002 -Illumination Rock 9,643' As the 6th highest Volcanic summit in Oregon, the "I-Rock" also represents the most difficult and committing summit in the state. It is also the scene of some of the most technically demanding alpine routes in the Northwest. With mixed rock and ice routes up to 6 pitches long, it is the perfect 1 day playground for the aspiring alpinist. In addition to its easy access and minimal avalanche danger, it enjoys a 6-7 month long mixed rock and ice season. The actual summit is a teetering boulder that few may wish to stand upon. The Monolith itself is a eroded fin of andesite with some loose rock until the ice welds it together. Anyone who ventures should be prepared for the usuals: rock and ice fall, complicated descents and route finding intricacies. The best routes seem to start at the downhill” Toe" of the rock itself and end on the west summit/ West Gable. A dozen new routes have been climbed in the range of M3-M6 ranges, and each are amazing climbs that reliably come "in”.” Pineapple Express “ storms seem to help. There are 2 start gullies that are found on the toe and after 2 pitches will lead one to a steep headwall. The head wall can be climbed directly, or passed to the right for easier climbing. Pure water ice routes form on the east face proper and can vary from WI3-4+ depending on how fat they form. It took a few explorations to become comfortable with this place so get to know it first. I have found the best conditions to occur in Nov-Dec. and Mar-April. It should be cold if you climb on the sunny (east side) but the shady side can be more difficult in general as well as safer in warmer temps. Quote
wayne Posted November 21, 2002 Author Posted November 21, 2002 I am headed ther the next 2 weekends, Does anyone know how white it is ? What percent of the rock is showing? I expect it to be great! In case you havent heard there are topos in Climaxe in Portland and Pro Mt. Sports in Seattle Quote
jaee Posted November 21, 2002 Posted November 21, 2002 Just to clarify: 2 gullies near the toe: 1st Gully is normal rap gully or 4th class ascent in summer? 2nd Gully is South Chamber? Does this fill in or is the second pitch hella steep if you exit right? The summit ridge of this thing blew me away in the summer. It's just piles of huge blocks that you can see thru. Gotta' go check it out. The Quarks are in Kentucky! Thanks Wayne. Are the topos in Oregon anywhere? How about a copy for ClimbMax? Quote
wayne Posted November 21, 2002 Author Posted November 21, 2002 The gullies are in between the S. chamber area and the ridge line to the left . They are near the lowest point on the I-Rock itself. The s. chamber gully itself is a great 80 degree ice route itself if you take the easiest way up. One of my favorites is the ridge just right of the s. chamber Quote
wayne Posted November 21, 2002 Author Posted November 21, 2002 [ 11-20-2002, 05:50 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ] Quote
rbw1966 Posted November 21, 2002 Posted November 21, 2002 Its been pretty damn warm here lately Wayne. Unless we see a cold snap soon I wouldn't be too hopeful for much ice. Quote
iain Posted November 21, 2002 Posted November 21, 2002 the forecasted freezing levels for this weekend have dropped a bit but are still pretty high (9K on Sat). But then 5K on Sunday w/precip. sounds like another windy transition weekend. Quote
wdietsch Posted November 21, 2002 Posted November 21, 2002 take your sunscreen and hibachi ... coldest temp @ 7K (Top of the Mile Ski Lift)in the last 24 hours was 47 .. registered this morning between 5 and 7 am. I know of a couple more bodies that shall be in the "Saddle" this weekend as well sounds like you guys should pool your money and haul in a keg. Quote
Terminal_Gravity Posted November 21, 2002 Posted November 21, 2002 quote: Originally posted by wdietsch: take your sunscreen and hibachi ... coldest temp @ 7K (Top of the Mile Ski Lift)in the last 24 hours was 47 .. registered this morning between 5 and 7 am. I know of a couple more bodies that shall be in the "Saddle" this weekend as well sounds like you guys should pool your money and haul in a keg. Texplorer & I are the "bodies" that wdietsch that is talking about. I'll be at the saddle fri afternoon w/ a yellow marmot tent. Look for us coming down Sat morning & say Hi. Jarred might be around as well... sounds like a big party. ( it also sounds like it will be warm enough for Pina Coladas ) Quote
wayne Posted November 23, 2002 Author Posted November 23, 2002 My Pro-patrol buddy said the rock is pretty much dry . When you guys go up there please look on the Reid side for me and tell me if there is ice looking stuff? Quote
iain Posted November 23, 2002 Posted November 23, 2002 They may have already left for Yocum. Wonder what that's like in these conditions? Guess we'll find out. Quote
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