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robpatterson5

Belay Plates

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Just wondering what you all thought of the Trango Piramid, vs. the BD ATC or ATC-XP. The XP, looks to have more gizmos then needed IMO, but is this true? I'll proably get the Piramid, b/c I liked the way it fed and stops falls, but any issues with it? Sport? Trad? Ice? Alpine? What do you guys think? Oh ya, no exotic sugestions please! I want to be able to go to MEC and pick one up as oposed to dealing with ordering one online. Thanks for your imput.

Cheers: Rob

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Reverso or XP are the best for ice and alpine - respectively Reverso for alpine or multipitch trad (autoblocking) and XP best braking for skinny, icy ropes

Pyramid is decent too - good cragging device but doesn't autoblock and not as much rap/lower friction as XP

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no no Dru, Trango b52= lighter, less clanky, and doesn't develop a sharp edge. Let's you do the auto-locking of two seconds for alpine, just like the reverso.

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if you're a moron like me, you'll fuck up the way you run the ropes on the reverso or ATC XP. get the pyramid or atc, same damn thing...and they feed way smoother. I've never had a problem with an ATC on skinny iced up ropes.

 

for multipitch buy a gi-gi (small autolocking belay plate) for faster changeovers. the weight of an atc AND a gi-gi is trivial to the time savings.

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no no Dru, Trango b52= lighter, less clanky, and doesn't develop a sharp edge. Let's you do the auto-locking of two seconds for alpine, just like the reverso.

 

b52 needs 3 biners reverso only needs 2 boxing_smiley.gif

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biners reverso only needs 2 boxing_smiley.gif

 

Mammut Matrix needs only 2 and doesn't come with a disclaimer saying it will suck on a wet 8.4 mm rope (which is too big for the Reversino, duh!). Anybody has used it?

 

drC

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no no Dru, Trango b52= lighter, less clanky, and doesn't develop a sharp edge. Let's you do the auto-locking of two seconds for alpine, just like the reverso.

 

 

 

 

b52 needs 3 biners reverso only needs 2 boxing_smiley.gif

 

 

yeah, so you need 3 biners to bring up two seconds.. so what? how often are you down to your very last biner?

Edited by Blake

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clunky and slower than ATC to set up and to unlock from autoblock. B52 is so suck boxing_smiley.gif

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As you can tell from above, I don't think your going to get one answer about this issue. And You will definately get alot of analysis of the issue. I'd like to offer another form of analysis.

 

You can look at the number of biners, the autolocking features, weight, blah blha blah... But insead, just look at what's been around for a while and still seems to sell pretty well: the good 'ol ATC. Sure, some stupid shit continues to be sold (widemouth nalgenes and hand strengtheners), but at least you know a bunch of people have used them and if there were some issue, it'd have come up by now. I guess I'm not interested in beta testing some new fancy must-have climbing gear. Maybe Im just slow.

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Sure, some stupid shit continues to be sold (widemouth nalgenes...)

 

The widemouth nalgene is far superior to the skinny ones. You can't eat soup from the skinny one, you can't put ice cubes in there, and it is hard as hell to fill one up from a shallow alpine stream or misty waterfall. boxing_smiley.gifboxing_smiley.gif

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some stupid shit continues to be sold (widemouth nalgenes and hand strengtheners),...

 

Wide mouth nalgenes are very useful. Much easier to fill when pouring from a pot (think melting snow). You can use them for huckleberry collecting. They are easier to add drink mixes to. Less convenient for drinking from, but lots of advantages over narrow-mouthed bottles. (edit: scooped by Blake).

 

I want a hand strengthener thing. I like the BD ring. thumbs_up.gif

 

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Thanks for all the help, I'll probaly just go with the piramid, b/c I like how it feels like a more secure lock off then the ATC. And 'maybe' a smother feed. Their about the same price anyways. As for a gri-gri for multi-pitch, thats an awsome idea, luckaly I have the run of my clubs equipment locker for more technical (read $$$) stuff like that. I just want my own set up, for 90% of the stuff I do. Any issues w/ shinny or iced up ropes for any of these plates?

Cheers: Rob

b/t wide-mouth Nalgenes ROCK! You can even get a splash gard for them now which makes them even better now IMO (although I tend to louse those).

Anyways, keep on fighting about Belay Plates, this is helpfull.

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biners reverso only needs 2 boxing_smiley.gif

 

Mammut Matrix needs only 2 and doesn't come with a disclaimer saying it will suck on a wet 8.4 mm rope (which is too big for the Reversino, duh!). Anybody has used it?

 

drC

 

yes, used it liked it. nice for the thin rope. feeds smoothly. doesn't feel quite as smooth on rap as my ATC but that could've been the route, my skills, or the rope. thumbs_up.gif

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I've been studying the issue for some time and have been considering the B-52 and Reverso. I've come to the same conclusion as Layton. I'll stick with my ATC and buy a GiGi. Each does best what it is designed to do and each is very simple and light.

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Kong Gi-Gi

 

If I were going to buy a new belay device, I'd probably check out the Mammut Matrix. It looks to be everything that the Reverso is, but perhaps a bit more durable (no sharp edge formation) and with smoother action. I've never seen one in person; anybody know of a place in Seattle that has them?

 

yellaf.gif I just remembered that I found an ATC in the Index parking lot that had been run over by cars a few times. The wire was bent at 90-degrees, but I picked it up, bent the wire back, and Szyjakowski said, "hey! I need a belay device, can I have that?" I think he is still using that one. yellaf.gif

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Feathered Friends carried these last summer- I think they still do.

 

I've got one you can borrow whenever- I didn't like it as much as I wanted too. It locks up too much with single ropes (9.5-10.5) but works great with smaller diameters (7-9).

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[Matrix] locks up too much with single ropes (9.5-10.5) but works great with smaller diameters (7-9).

 

More so than a reverso? You are talking about when using it in lead belay (rather than autoblock) mode, correct?

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More so than my jaws. Never used a reverso enough to give a good comparison.

Yes, in lead mode.

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More so than my jaws. Never used a reverso enough to give a good comparison.

Yes, in lead mode.

 

I thought your jaws locked up on the rope in lead mode...

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I'll stick with my ATC and buy a GiGi.

 

Hey Catbird, What's a GiGi? rolleyes.gif

 

yellaf.gif

You mean WHO is Gigi? She's one heck of a beauty. Climbs hard too. I'll have to introduce her to you some time.

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More so than my jaws. Never used a reverso enough to give a good comparison.

Yes, in lead mode.

 

I thought your jaws locked up on the rope in lead mode...

 

yelrotflmao.gif

 

Damn, I wish I thought of that one.

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