scrambled_legs Posted January 31, 2005 Posted January 31, 2005 Going to Devil's Tower this summer and wondering if anyone has any beta on it. Anything I should know about the climbs, camping spots, local taverns etc. Thanks. Quote
fgw Posted January 31, 2005 Posted January 31, 2005 It gets mighty warm on sun-exposed faces during the day...Africa hot!! We stayed at that KOA campground and it SUCKED!!!! Expensive and you have a bunch of RV's, ATV's, and other white t*ash paraphenalia making noise into late hours of the night. There's got to be better options but I don't know where. There's a general store right there as well (basics). Check the summitpost Devil's Tower page - got lots of good route info. from Frank Sanders himslef (many FA's on the tower). Some good info. also here: http://www.piquaclimber.com/ and here: http://www.gdargaud.net/ (nice photos!) Oh yeah, as you're hiking down after a day of climbing, keep your gaze down - DON'T make eye contact with the tourists (or pack all your stuff inside the backpack, douse yourself with massive amounts of cologne and make like one of them)...you'll see why after your first day there. Overall a great fun place. Enjoy. Quote
Bill_Simpkins Posted January 31, 2005 Posted January 31, 2005 You can climb in the shade if you plan your routes right. Just work around counter-clockwise as the sun moves. The problem can be finding open routes in the shade, if its busy. Quote
chucK Posted January 31, 2005 Posted January 31, 2005 Bring a big rack (that is, many pieces). The pitches are long. The Nat. Monument campsite seemed fine to me. I believe there is still a voluntary ban on climbing the Tower in the month of June. Quote
chirp Posted February 1, 2005 Posted February 1, 2005 Bring a big rack (that is, many pieces). The pitches are long. The cracks are often very nut friendly. Often cams are awkward and difficult to place in the frequently undulating crack systems. Bring a Buttload of stoppers! Quote
Mr._Natural Posted February 1, 2005 Posted February 1, 2005 start stretching do el matador and two more pitches to the summit. (not my photo) Quote
alpinerockfiend Posted February 2, 2005 Posted February 2, 2005 Soler is the best 5.9 I've ever done and a great intro to Devil's Tower climbing. What a hottie in the photo! Quote
chirp Posted February 2, 2005 Posted February 2, 2005 Scott Croll preparing to Rap from the meadows after doing Soler in 1987 Quote
Coondog Posted February 22, 2005 Posted February 22, 2005 Re: beta on DT: 1. We camped @ the Natl Park (or Monument?) area which is okay, but sounds like the hookup is to get your reservation at the climbers hostel / camp well in advance... Climbed next to the guy who runs it, super cool guy... 2. Be prepared for the crowd on the weekend; bag the Durrance and Matador on a weekday (if ya can) 3. Ditto on the stretch... unless you're already gumby dat is; Matador is unreal. <if I really got this image to insert, i'm buying myself a bier right now> Quote
bremerton_john Posted February 22, 2005 Posted February 22, 2005 We did the Durrance 2 summers ago. We got stuck behind 2 bone-heads that took the better part of the day to get up the thing, and along the way dropped 2 cams that nearly hit us. I was seriously torqued about this when at the final belay Frank Sanders pops his head over the ledge at my feet with rope in tow. He bellows a hearty greeting and proceeds to pull up the loose rope behind him. As it became clear to me that he was free-soloing the route he asks if I'd mind if he climbed through (kinda like a golfer would). When we got to the top he gave us a "tour" of the summit plateau, showing us a hidden pile of old rusty tin cans and other paraphenalia from the time back in 40s when the guys got stuck on top. He also pointed out his house down below just a short distance away, and invited us over for supper that night. If we hadn't been slowed down by the guys in front of us we would never have met Frank. That was one of my most memorable climbing days. Quote
solfuego Posted February 25, 2005 Posted February 25, 2005 Durrance is the classic, a must do. Also, check out Tulgey Wood 5.10a, fun finger crack... And I think Mr. Clean. It's been a couple of years but I think we camped in the monument and it was cool! Watch out for the giant bear that created the tower trying to get to the 'locals' (seriously though, check the dates for the voluntary climbing ban for native american ceremonies, I think chucK is right - the whole month of June!) Not much around there, but if you are driving out, you gotta stop at Wild Iris outside of Lander. awesome sport climbing, very cool scene and camping at the town park! Enjoy. Quote
chirp Posted February 25, 2005 Posted February 25, 2005 Durrance is the trade route and as such, typically reeks of urine. If you are willing to put up with climbs such as Durrance then you might be better off doing Tad, same kind of climbing with less urine. Carols Crack Walt Bailey Memorial Belle Fouche Buttress Mr.Clean Soler McCarthy North Face West Face direct Hollywood and Vine Skinny Puppy (insert chestbeat emote) Broken Tree El Matador Freaking awesome place to climb...load up heavy on stoppers and Rps and a small cam rack and you'll be all set. And while your there, drive to the NW corner of the monument where the dirt road leaves the park. Step outside the boundary and in the soil you can find fossil squid shells Orthoceras. Dont forget the bouldering! ( Andy Petefish on the Extingusher. North Tower loop) Quote
Janez_Ales Posted February 26, 2005 Posted February 26, 2005 Matador is closed in the spring at some point for the nesting time... but there is a number of other 11's that will give you great climbing anytime of the year... I guess the only pic that beats the one above is the one of Catherine, yes the "woman in green" Quote
gosolo Posted February 27, 2005 Posted February 27, 2005 Advice about stoppers is good. Take two to three sets and less on the cams. The tower eats great stoppers, you can throw those babies in there. If you are going to do the Durrance route, do it fast and early. Also there are variations that are slightly harder you can do to get by slower parties. If Mr. Clean is within your abilities and El Matador they are awesome. While the desert may have the most perfect cracks the tower has the most fun ones to climb... Quote
Thomas150 Posted March 4, 2005 Posted March 4, 2005 I went to Devil's Tower with 3 friends last summer and I can tell you one thing man: You will have a whole lot of fun there - it's a great peak! We made a roadtrip/climbing movie about that summer's trip. It'S not quite done yet but if you're interested check out the trailer we got done by now on http://www.styleofgravity.com/home/home.htm Quote
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