avenue of the volcanos

[olyclimber]

Has anyone here climbed these (Ecuador)? Or just one? Cotopaxi, Cayambe, Chimborazo, and Antisana?

[treknclime]

There's some good guidebooks out there for them, which'll cover almost everything you need; try any of the Rob Rachowiecki books, published by Brandt. Rob's got a number of books out there, from trekking to climbing, and many editions have been published. The first three peaks are well documented and doable. Chimborazo can be icy, and the appoach to the glacier can be prone to ice/rockfall. Cotopaxi has avi danger after big dumps, right on the last big slope up to the rim. The last peak has access issues, since the approach crosses pvt land, and the owner is semi-cooperative. There's also a bergshrund that prevents a summit ascent some years. Cayambe can be the same with wide slots, but there always seems to be a work around (sometimes thin, but OK). Plan extra time to acclimate than you would think, and you'll enjoy the trip more.

 

Be careful walking around Quito alone at night. Best to go out with someone. It's a great trip, and you'll have a good time.

[chelle]

Hey Oly. What are your questions about the trip? Here's a great view from the summit of Cayambe.

[olyclimber]

Chelle, beautiful pic. I was asking because I was just having a conversation with my mom about a friend of the family that climbed all 4 on a single trip. I know there is lots of info out there about these peaks, but I was just wondering if anyone else who posts here has been up there. Sounds pretty cool...one of them is actually the farthest point from the center of the earth. Sounds like an adventure...paying land owners to cross their land and all...did you climb Cayambe?

[miller]

hello,

 

im actually writing this from quito. climbed 'em all, although some of the routes have changed dramatically since i was here just 6 years ago.

 

not too adventurous really - all except for antisana have huts, and all 4 mountains are day climbs if acclimated. the mountains are high, but not that big. its only on antisana that you need permission to enter private land. the distance between the toes of the glaciers and the summits on rainier and baker is greater than that on the ecuador volcanoes. and you drive almost right to the toes of the glaciers, have a short jaunt with a light pack, and sleep in a hut.

 

if youre interested and you feel like the cascade volcanoes are well within your abilities, then youll have no problem down here - just gotta take your time acclimating.

 

if you want any more info, fire away - should be back in the states by new years eve if all goes well with flights.

 

cheers,todd

[miller]

errr just reread my post and need a correction...actually didnt summit antisana - close, but i had to turn back with sick clients at about 18,000 ft. but my friend i was guiding with continued on with his clients to the summit without problems.

 

word.

[olyclimber]

Hi Todd,

 

How long did it take for you to do all four? I take you guided other up? What is the best time of year to climb them? Thanks.

[miller]

hello,

 

in 1998 i did the 3 highest in about 9 days. more time would be better of course, but you dont need much time.

 

yes, the trip that i am currently wrapping up was one that i was guiding.

 

id say a minimum reasonable amount of time would be two weeks total for the 3 most popular volcanoes (cayambe, cotopaxi, chimborazo), including travel/acclimatization days. of course, more time would be better and would allow you to see other places in ecuador and get on a more mellow and productive acclimatization schedule.

 

i cant really say what the best time of year is from my own experience because ive only been down here in december and january. supposedly, december/january and july/august are the best times to go, with december/january offering decent weather and snow conditions and july/august offering clearer yet windier weather. the peaks get climbed year round. my local friends say that n. american spring and fall are the worst times to go, but still, the peaks are often climbed during these months. as far as weather down here, they say that solstices = better weather, equinoxes = worse weather.

 

mountain conditions have changed as well, differing from repuatation and guide book info. cotopaxi has the reputation of being the easiest, but the route has totally changed, and now cayambe offers the most straightforward ascent. also, tungurahua spewed a bunch of ash on chimborazo a few years back, and apparently the mountain is now very icy compared to the past. im told that very few people actually summit the mountain now - the mountain is often topped out at the 'veintemilla' summit instead of the whymper (true) summit.

 

im rambling now...probably created as many questions as ive answered - but please, PM me if youd like to get into more details. last day in ecuador (hopefully...) - ill be back in bellingham late tomorrow night.

 

cheers, todd

[dylan_taylor]

If you need beta, I am in quito now. The conditions on the peaks are still comparatively good (better than last year at the same time). All summits are possible on the glaciated peaks:

Cayambe (quite mellow with a little nipple on top, snow extends almost to glacier -rock junction at 16,400');

 

Cotopaxi (direct route only, endless plodding up 37 degree slope, then tricky ladder crossing);

 

Antisana (make up a route up the N face, then traverse E below summit 'schrund - get permission and driver from almost any climbing outfitter in Quito - $10 per person permission);

 

Illiniza Sur - as of two weeks ago it was in great shape, but the route in the old Yossi Brain guidbook and the route today are quite different. The approach is way rockier, there is a 4th class rock band to get up to the normal route, the 'schrunds were all easy to cross (but they change quick).

 

Chimborazo: The Whymper summit is currently doable but you need to get to the top of the Ventimilla summit in less than seven hours if you want to tag both and get below the Corredor befor the rocks start falling. There is no snow on this route untill almost 18,500'! Just rock, black ice, and kitty litter.

 

Carihuairazo (2nd hand info). The hut is cheap and clean, the approach is straightforward, and the glacier ins 100% dry (no hidden crevasse hazard). Chunky choss moves for 20m up to the summit.

 

Good luck. -DT

[olyclimber]

Wow...no snow till 18,500?! I just read this on summit post : "considering the geometry of the Earth, this summit is known as the farthest point from its center".

Any plans of going down there would be at least 2-3 years out, but I'm interested.

 

Are you going to climb any?

[dylan_taylor]

I'm done climbing here for the season. I've been here since the beginning of November and I need a break. Too many scammers and taxi drivers trying to rip off the gringo.

[dylan_taylor]

Of course i don't want to sound too cynical, I do love it down here.

[miller]

ha ha! back in bellingham now...cant say im not happy to be back. hopefully things went well for you last night and you didnt catch a bottle rocket to the eyeball. it was cool and real and all that - see you in march.

[dylan_taylor]

the climbing is great in ecuador but watch out for the pickpocketers. I lost $120 on new years eve. Oops. Quito can be a rough town.

 

olyclimber, if you have any other specific beta questions feel free to ask. I don't have answers to everything but i have recent info on routes if it helps.

 

Todd, I am jealous of bellingham. I would almost prefer drizzle to the 100 deg heat in Mendoza right now!

 

-DT

[layton]

i am a banana!