Beacon Rock - SE Corner Question

[Blake]

I'm heading out to Beacon Rock on Tuesday to do some stuff, probably the SE corner. I'm just going off of Olson's "Portland Climbs" book for beta, can ayone offer me anything more? Gear advice, number of pitches (looks to be about 5) and especially walk-off/rappel options would be great to hear. He says you can exit "into the woods" but will this get us to the trail back down the bottom? Anyone bringing tennis shoes with the on the climb for a walk-off? Thanks!

 

I've don't some multi-pitch before, but nothing more than three pitches. Does this route seem like a good option for leading my first grade III climb?

 

[layton]

yes, it would be a fantastick option. bring tennis shoes for the hike down. i haven't done it, but know many that have and from what they have said, it sounds right up your alley. have fun!!!

p.s. i'm sure the guidebook is plenty to figure out the route and gear. there a about a billion options (i've been at lots of the belays for s.e corner for other climbs) so be very discrimination about which way you go (follow your nose).

[jhamaker]

Lots and lots of variations. Just remember, if you end up climbing 5.10 on a 5.8 rt - you're off rt. On Beacon bassalt I used a lot of chocks and a few friends in the inch range +/- half an inch.

[Doug_Hutchinson]

It's a great climb and classic although "following your nose" on the upper pitches can seem like steep bush wacking with a move or two of fifth class (it's fun if you know it, but can seem dirty the first time). There are only 2-3 "real" pitches and a few more 4th - low 5th. Pitch 1 is nice, but the "Cruiser" direct start to the base of the SE Corner 3 pitch is a better start, but a sandbag 5.7 (more like 5.8+). The Corner's 3rd pitch is both the crux and the mega classic pitch. Lots of rope drag since you need to cut around right (near the top) and then left and up to get to the belay on the huge tree ledge. Many rap from here since the 4th pitch is so so and the rest is forgetable and a little hard to follow. If you want to be really safe, bring two ropes so you can retreat whenever you want. The walk off is the way to go since the trail down is cool.

[JosephH]

We were out doing Young Warriors Saturday just around down from SE corner - be aware that the east winds are howling and will be fairly blistering all week. Be sure to dress very warmly and I'd recommend going to REI or GI Joes and getting some air activated handwarmers - we used them in our [fingerless] gloves at belays (on the wrist) and had them in our coat pockets where we could get at them when climbing. They last all day and really make a difference. Also, stack your rope when belaying and pay attention to it in this much wind.

[Blake]

Many rap from here since the 4th pitch is so so and the rest is forgetable and a little hard to follow.

 

If we rap from this tree ledge back down, can can it be done in one rap to the first (snag) ledge and a second rap to the ground? (using a single 60m)

 

Thanks for the info guys, I'm getting stoked!

I hope it dries out. I suppose if we need to bring tennis shoes then someone's got to climb with a pack on....

[JosephH]

It is all dried out and will stay that way in this wind which is unusually blowing 24x7. As far as shoes go - there is no need for shoes that tight on the SE corner, comfortable shoes will be fine. In fact, shoes that tight are going to be cold. You won't need chalk either - every surface out there has been blasted completely clean (and large trees dropped in the process). Go warm and comfortable.

[b-rock]

If we rap from this tree ledge back down, can can it be done in one rap to the first (snag) ledge and a second rap to the ground? (using a single 60m)

 

A single 60 works from the tree ledge to the end of the 'traverse' second pitch (not snag ledge). Another 60m rap puts you at the base of Cruisin'.

 

I've always thought the pitch after the tree ledge (4th in book) was fun, but not the scrambling from there. If you do that and there aren't many people out climbing you can make a bunch of single rope raps from the Grassy Ledges.

[Jim_T]

Only one thing I can add to everyone else's good advice: you can find photos of the beginning of each pitch here: http://www.summitpost.org/show/mountain_link.pl/mountain_id/2212. It makes it incredibly easy to follow.

 

We were up there on Saturday also, and like Joseph said the wind was howling! Other than that, it's a great climb.

[billcoe]

Only one thing I can add to everyone else's good advice: you can find photos of the beginning of each pitch here: http://www.summitpost.org/show/mountain_link.pl/mountain_id/2212. It makes it incredibly easy to follow.

 

We were up there on Saturday also, and like Joseph said the wind was howling! Other than that, it's a great climb.

 

If you click on the pic of the only climber on the main page of the link Jim -t posted, that is actually Boardwalk, (title "rapping Beacon Rock") not SE Corner, a 5.6-5.7 trad single pitch around the corner to the right from SE Corner. (Note the single line, that has to be a 60meter, mandatory) If you look over that guys head you can see Josephs new route "Lost Warriors" to the left which goes up and over the blocks at the top of the pic. At the top of that pic, the 3rd pitch of se corner would be just to the left out of view by 20 feet or so. Another view of Ujahn on a variation of P2 Lost Warriors in October.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=8240&sort=1&cat=517&page=1

or Joseph at the top http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=8049&sort=1&cat=517&page=3

 

 

The pics on the summit post are not clearly marked- most of them are SE corner. I suspect if you nose around in CC.com, you'll find it somewhere in there.

 

All of the advise and comments you have recieved so far is stellar. You might try to suck Joseph to go with you, he almost lives out there, I understand , is a great guy- and has deep and varied experiance. Perfect partner.

 

As far as answering your question, this is a great route, and would be a fine first trad lead. It does wander a bit, and having someone with you who has been up it at least once before would be nice - but not mandatory.

 

I saw a post on Rockclimbing.com recently where people are comparing the best routes they have ever done. Was surprised to see Larry (areyoumydude) who currently climbs out of Zion, and has extensive Yosemite and other places blah blah experiance, in response to the question of the best route you've ever done, simply said "SE corner of Beacon Rock".

 

It's a good route, but not the very best every IMO. You'd enjoy it depending on weather of course.

 

Regards:

 

Bill

[Thrill]

I would do the first pitch of SE corner and then go straight up from the belay station from there. it's a hard pitch but clean and fun. the traverse and the 4th class scramble suck. I've done it, just to do it and now I'll skip that part from here on out. good luck

[Blake]

I neglected summitpost in my search for beta, I guess i figured Beacon wasn't really a mountain. SP's beacon page was great though! Thanks for the advice everyone. I'm thinking we'll 2-rap straight down the line from the grassy ledges per http://www.summitpost.org/mountains/phot...r_by____limit__ Either way, i'm sure it'll be great.