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kakeandjelly

New year on success...

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Thinking of climbing success over new year weekend, weather permitting... any thoughts? I do not know alot about this route, but it looks like a decient winter climb.

 

Thanks

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This would be a very long hike. Westside road is closed, so you will start at Longmire or Kautz Creek trail, both making it more than 11k elevation overall and 7-8 miles of approach to 7k elevation. Both trails are snow-covered above 4k. I would expect mix of wind-loaded snow spots and icy pitches along the cleaver (based on conditions of Muir snow field 3 days ago). Very unlikey that you will make it in 2 days this time of year - may be 3-4 days of strenious work given only about 9 hours of day light. smirk.gif

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We are planning three and 1/2 days for the climb...

 

Thoughts

1: thinking about descending the Ingram direct

2: Day 1 maybe to Pyramid creek cg

Day 2 to 8200 camp

Day 3 to summit, and stay there, or descend to ingram flat.

Day 4 to Paradise and my wife with warm car...

3: I there a high camp on success that is higher than the 8200 high camp?

 

any thoughs are apreciated

 

thanks in advance

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Things to consider: with the low snowpack (and with it being early, too) this year, Ingraham Direct might be a bit tricky.

 

Also, with short daylight, and 6200 feet to climb from the proposed high camp, will probably be stretching it a bit.

 

Neat idea, though. It's cool to see people coming up with climbing ideas that are off the beaten path a bit.

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8200 to summit and camp or down the other side in winter sounds like a really hard day. You dont want to bivy on the summit if you dont have to. Even with semi decent weather elsewhere, the summit can be capped by a lenticular and fierce winds at any time.

 

In summer it would be a really hard day.

 

With good weather your plan sounds feasible. But I would not bet on you getting good weather 3.5 days in a row.

 

Alex

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There is a small bivy area at about 11,000 - this appeared to me to be the highest reasonable high camp. Lots of potential places to camp from 8,200-10,000. Success cleaver is a loooong route. I personally think 8,200 is too low for a high camp in the winter.

Edited by Duchess

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If the weather continues to look questionable, we are thinking of going to Muir, camping out, and hoping for a window to shoot up Gib Ledges... Any one know about the condition of this route?

 

Thanks

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Lots of good advice on Success Cleaver, I agree, 8,200 feet is a bit low for a summit push. Try to make 9,500 feet, though it will take you a full 2 days to get there, and maybe more if the snow is deep. But if the snow is really deep, don’t do the route, as the avalanche hazard will probably be much worse higher on the mountain. This route isn’t so much a “ridge” climb, as it is lot of traverses along a steep ridge. You will be exposed to avalanche prone gullies.

 

Gib is in GREAT shape, and it can be done in 2 days. It would also be a great prep for Success Cleaver. The time to climb either of these routes was over the last few days when the weather was so nice.

 

If you really want Success Cleaver, wait until late Feb or early March, as you’ll really appreciate the longer days.

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