Where to take a newbie in PDX?

[Blake]

It looks like we have about a week of warm dry weather ahead, bad for skiing and water next summer, good for rock climbing now. If i want to take a gym-climber friend of mine and go do some sport or trad in the portland area that isn't too tough, where would you recommend? Any online maps of these places? (i'm trying to avoid paying for a book i'll use a couple times) Just from checking out the route info on RC.com I'd say that the left hanging Gardens Wall @ Broughton's is the best place, any thoughts?

 

 

P.S. to the moderators: move this to Newbies or Oregon boards if you want.

[DavidHiers]

Rocky Butte is a good place to start.

 

http://ors.alpineclub.org/AAC/rocky1.html

[cj001f]

Rocky Butte is a good place to start.

Most people find Broughton's much more aesthetically pleasing than Rocky Butte (except if you find a good porn mag!)

[John Frieh]

Horsethief.

 

If it would help I could loan you my guidebook for OR.

[Thrill]

go to Rocky butte.. best that portland has to offer.

[texplorer]

I don't know what you heard about the weather being dry but there are a few places where you can climb out of the weather too. The classic crack area at Broughton will stay dry even in the rain as it is overhung but beware that "easy 5.9" crack around there. Rocky butte is the easiest access but if the weather is truly going to be good you should head up to Beacon and do the SE corner.

[iain]

I would second that recommendation for Beacon rock, as it is far better than what is available in the metro area in my opinion. However, if it is the first time outdoors for someone you might be limited in what you can climb there. The SE corner is a fine choice and a beautiful introduction to outdoor multi-pitch climbing. Little Wing is another fine crack right next to it too.

[Ireneo_Funes]

Rocky Butte is close, has a lot of moderate single-pitch routes, and you can set up a toprope on pretty much anything if you want. It might be kinda muddy out there right now though.

 

But for a really fun time, do what Tex and Iain have suggested and go out to Beacon. SE corner has a lot of fun variations.

[Blake]

Horsethief.

 

If it would help I could loan you my guidebook for OR.

 

yeah, that would help. What book is it, and how can i meet you to borrow it?

[rbw1966]

BEWARE of the winds at Horsethief! You can get whipped around sumpin fierce. I can't get excited about driving that far to essentially boulder but if you combine it with a trip to Hood River to toss back a few I suppose its worthwhile.

 

I'd recommend Beacon as well though.

[Blake]

Thanks for all the info, I think we'll head to Rocky Butte or Broughton on Thursday when things might not be real dry, and once I see how comfotable he is outside, Beacon sounds like the place to go a few days later after some clear weather.