Mount Adams and Mount Baker

[rangerboy]

What are the best routes up these two mountains and in what books are they covered.

Mount Adams

Mount Baker

[Thomas]

I personally think that an amazing route on Mt.Baker is the North Ridge. An amazing position between two large glaciers. It does require some ability to climb technical ice however, but can be ascended with only one axe in early season (done it, not recommended).

The Coleman Glacier route on Baker is popular and has been ascended by four legged animals.

Both Routes are covered in one of Fred Beckey's Cascade guidebooks, not sure what volumes (there are 3, I think). Also the guidebook 'Selected Climbs in the Cascades' by Nelson and Potterfield covers the routes.

Hope this helps,

Thomas

[forrest_m]

On Adams, I highly recommend either of the north side routes (Adams Glacier, in Vol. 1 of Nelson/Potterfield or Lava Glacier in Vol. 2, both also in Vol. 1 of the Beckey Guide) The approach is a bit longer but you'll likely have the whole side of the mountain to yourself. It's really a beautiful place, with high meadows and lakes and super views of Rainier just to the north. Both routes are moderately steep and can be a walk or pretty challenging depending on whether you do them in May or September. (Later in the year = more difficult)

The south side routes (Mazama Glacier, S. Spur, etc.) are always a zoo, there are literally hundreds of people on the S. Spur on a sunny weekend.

If you want more details, I posted a trip report on the Lava Glacier Headwall in the trip reports section of this website last fall.

btw, I second the recommendation for the North Ridge of Baker, or if you want something not-very-technical, the Easton Glacier

[This message has been edited by forrest_m (edited 04-08-2001).]

[rangerboy]

Thanks for all the information and where to find more. I am looking forward to this summer and conquering some other cascade mountains. I did Rainier last summer and I am not that familiar with these because I have done all my climbing in the Olympics. Anyway thank you.

Nels Peterson

[Raustin]

The south spur on Adams is a great non-technical trek. Makes for a long day from the car but well worth it. On Baker the Colman-Deming Glacier is a great trip. Tons of people though. Still well worth the alpine experience. Both routes are in the becky books and the baker route is in the "Selected Climbs in the Cascades" book.

[Joe_Poulton]

No one "conquers" a mountain, the mountain permits you to climb it. If the Mountain does not want you to climb it and you think you are climbing to conquer it, the mountain will kill you. Be smarter about climbing. Climbing is the art of letting the features of the mountain show you the way, not an endeavor of forging a way. I do not mean to offend, but just don't think the mentality of "conquering" something is healthy.

[This message has been edited by Joe Poulton (edited 04-12-2001).]

[DPS]

Joe,

How do you know the mountain does not want you to climb it? Have you asked? Does the mountain just not want you to climb it or me as well?

Are you sure the mountain permits one to climb it? I have always obtained permits from the ranger station. I would have to say the rangers permit one to climb the mountain.

[rangerboy]

Yeah that is what I thought, last I checked mountains didn't talk. And it is true that the rangers depict wether you climb or not because I know this personally as I am a ranger. But anyway climbing has to be agressive or else nothing would be climbed, it is just you usually forget to use common sense and that is where you get into trouble.

[philfort]

But just because you got to the top, and back down safely, doesn't mean you've conquered the mountain. I'm afraid I'm with Joe Poulton on this one.

... I know, I know, it's just a word. But it has implications.

[mikeadam]

I kind of/sort of agree with Ranger Boy. At least on the level that approaching a climb in an aggressive and well thought out manner combined with good conditions will end in success. I don't see the mountain as having any aenema.

I see mountains as inanimate objects, and I do not place mystical value in them. I believe what we conquer is generally something more akin to an obstacle within ourselves.

Mike http://alpinelite.com

[Joe_Poulton]

I'm back...with more years under my belt. If anyone still thinks you "conquer" a mountain that was on this post...well are you still climbing? Do you still think that way? By the way Mountains still are my Cathedral and have been since High School. So spiritually and scientifically they do talk...weather/snow quality/ ice tools melding with the ice as they make that perfect sound/moments of self understanding....just holla back if you wanna debate?

[Roy]

I'm back...with more years under my belt. If anyone still thinks you "conquer" a mountain that was on this post...well are you still climbing? Do you still think that way? By the way Mountains still are my Cathedral and have been since High School. So spiritually and scientifically they do talk...weather/snow quality/ ice tools melding with the ice as they make that perfect sound/moments of self understanding....just holla back if you wanna debate?

Do not care to debate but I bet it would an experience to hike a long approach with you.

[catbirdseat]

I'm back...with more years under my belt. If anyone still thinks you "conquer" a mountain that was on this post...well are you still climbing? Do you still think that way? By the way Mountains still are my Cathedral and have been since High School. So spiritually and scientifically they do talk...weather/snow quality/ ice tools melding with the ice as they make that perfect sound/moments of self understanding....just holla back if you wanna debate?

So you are back after a hiatus of nearly five years! Anything change for the better around here? Worse?

 

Personally, I don't regard a mountain as conquered when I climb it. I consider that I've overcome my own limitations.

[Joe_Poulton]

I was out climbing various places with Denver as a hub...now I've moved back to P-town...but the only thing I notice is not just locally. The persona of climbing is changing...respect is degrading in some standards...the recent event on Hood...the climbers on Everest walking by others that were dieing and didn't even try to help. It's a sad recognition of....

[Joe_Poulton]

...Reality. People, more people are climbing so naturally many different attitudes arise. It's like how Snowboarding brought a different set of ideals to the Mountain at it's creation.