PI Article on North Bend Climbing

[catbirdseat]

Thursday, October 28, 2004

 

A primo rock-climbing playground is just a short drive away

 

By JASON D. MARTIN

SPECIAL TO THE POST-INTELLIGENCER

 

The muscles in Krista Eytchison's forearms ache terribly as she grips tiny holds on the rock wall. She slowly works her feet up the smooth surface, searching for a dime-sized edge that might support her.

 

There's nothing there -- nothing for her feet, nothing for her hands.

 

If she were just a few inches taller ...

 

She's going to have to "dyno" -- jump for it -- to reach the next good hold above.

 

"Watch me," she yells to her partner belaying below. Should she fall, his job is to "catch" her, using the rope threaded through the belay device on his harness and up through a series of carabiners clipped to fixed bolts in the rock, finally ending in a secure knot tied to her harness.

 

"I'm watching you," he reassures.

 

Krista looks down at the last bolt clipped to the line. She is at least six feet above it. If she falls she's going for a ride, going to a stop 12 feet below. It's a long fall, but relatively safe. The real danger lies in hitting a ledge or protrusion sticking out from the rock, but this route has no such dangers.

 

Krista looks up and steels herself, then springs, extending her arms for the hold -- and misses.

 

"Falling!" she yells as she drops. Her quickly locks off the rope, bringing her to an abrupt stop.

 

Hanging from the rope, Krista slaps the wall with a palm and groans with displeasure. Then she looks down at her belayer, smiles and heds back up the rock face for a second try.

 

Later, she completes the steep and difficult route known as Side Dish. She's happy.

 

"Part of the fun is just moving over the rock," she says. "It's just you and the rock. There's nothing else. You're totally focused on the moment. It's why I come out here."

 

Every weekend a subculture of climbers attempts to push the limit on rock walls throughout the state, and for local climbers there is no better place than the dark cliffs just 30 minutes east of Seattle, near North Bend.

 

The first climbers visited these walls in the '50s as they practiced for big mountains. There also was a small contingent that pursued pure rock climbing during those early years, but the sport did not truly come into fashion in Washington until the '70s.

 

During those early years, the North Bend cliffs often were overlooked as climbers visited places like Index or Leavenworth along Highway 2. Then, during the late '80s and early '90s, a small group of Seattle climbers led by Bryan Burdo began exploring the heavily vegetated forests near North Bend.

 

"We were looking for new opportunities near Seattle." Burdo explained. "People were skeptical at first, but we kept finding more and more featured rock. There were little cliffs everywhere with interesting climbs."

 

Burdo and his friends rediscovered old routes and began looking for new ones. Over a period of years they began to unearth dark and unrelentingly steep rock everywhere, but traditional climbing techniques were not effective on the vast majority of the crags.

 

Early rock climbers carried wedges and camming devices they could use to protect themselves while climbing a crack system in a cliff face. They would ascend the face with a rope tied to their harness while a partner belayed from below. The climber would place a piece of protection in the crack, then clip his rope to it with a carabiner. He would then continue climbing and placing gear as he went.

 

However, for many climbers -- especially novices -- placing gear is a time-consuming affair. So rock faces devoid of cracks were bolted using power drills and stainless-steel bolts. Fixed anchors were placed in the rock so climbers could simply clip their lead rope to a carabiner without having to place gear.

 

The result was that many extremely difficult routes were climbed without the danger that might have been associated with them prior to bolting. This new style was called "sport climbing."

 

When the hidden cliffs of North Bend were rediscovered, it was determined that most of the potential routes would require bolts for protection. Though there still are a few routes that are climbed using the early traditional techniques, sport climbing became the norm.

 

Burdo and other dedicated climbers spent their own time and money developing new bolted routes throughout the area. The first cliffs to be developed were on a small rock outcropping called Little Si, off Interstate 90's Exit 32. Slowly at first, the local climbing community began to visit and found steep, well-protected climbs in an appealing setting.

 

Traditional climbers and novice gym climbers began to flock to the area. The number visiting Little Si grew large, and problems developed with crowded parking and access to the cliffs. The approach required visitors to walk down a residential street, which the locals did not like.

 

"I realized that we needed another area," Burdo said. "Most people were beginners and looking for easier routes. I was aware of the cliffs off Exit 38 and thought that parking there would not be such a problem."

 

By 1993, Burdo and other climbers began the tedious process of cleaning and bolting the cliffs at the area that would become known as Exit 38. This second area, with easy access and numerous bolted routes for beginners, would slowly grow to become one of Washington's most popular rock-climbing destinations.

 

"It turned out that the climbing there was mostly on state parks land," Burdo said. "They actually saw us as an asset. Before we came, there were a lot of yahoos out there shooting guns and building bonfires. The parks thought we were an improvement, so together we developed a climbing policy."

 

There have been no fatalities in the North Bend climbing areas, though there have been many injuries. Most hurt climbers have been able to hobble out and get to a hospital on their own.

 

Though there have not been any human fatalities, dogs are another story. There have been at least two incidents where canines died from a fall off a cliff or bridge near the climbs.

 

Surprisingly, the most prevalent danger is not from falls but the danger of theft. Cars are broken into on a regular basis in the parking lots for both areas.

 

North Bend guidebook author Garth Bruce says "it's not just climbers who get hit. Hikers and bikers are targeted as well. The problem goes from North Bend all the way to Snoqualmie Pass."

 

Rock climbers often use chalk to enhance their grip.

Theft along I-90 trailheads tends to be cyclic. Generally there is a period of theft before climbers and hikers get wise. They begin taking everything out of their cars and leave the doors unlocked. After these steps, theft tends to become less of an issue. Then people stop worrying about it and begin to leave valuables in their vehicles once again, and parking lot theft increases.

 

Since the inception of the two areas, the amount of routes available to beginners and experts has grown, and many are classic. Interesting climbing at the beginner level, with routes like Mom there's Pink in my Burger, along with engaging advanced routes such as the airy Stihl Fingers, keep local climbers coming back for more.

 

On a busy weekend, there can be 20 or 30 people climbing at Little Si and up to 50 climbing at Exit 38.

 

"Seattle's a great place to live for its climbing opportunities," Burdo said. "With places like North Bend, people can get out and climb right after work. A lot of places don't have opportunities like that."

 

 

 

IF YOU GO

 

In the North Bend area there are two primary destinations, each with a number of smaller climbing areas.

 

 

Little Si is located directly beneath the much larger and more popular Mount Si. To get there, take Interstate 90 to Exit 32. Exit the freeway onto 436th Street and drive north to North Bend Way. Turn left and then make the first right onto Mount Si Road. In a short distance cross a bridge and park in the small lot on the left side of the road. From here walk down the residential street for approximately a quarter mile to the Little Si trailhead. Ascend the trail, staying left, for approximately a mile and a half. Small spur trails eventually leave the main trail and climb up to the rocks.

 

Classic Climbs on Little Si:

 

The Big Easy, 5.7

 

Reptiles and Amphetamines, 5.9

 

Sideswipe, 5.10a

 

Aborigine/Technorigine, 5.12d

 

 

"Exit 38" off Interstate 90 includes numerous areas. The following are the two most popular.

 

Mount Washington: From eastbound I-90, take Exit 38 and drive a short distance. Turn right immediately after the Twin Falls Park sign and drive up to the parking area. From here, hike up the Mount Washington Trail. In a short distance you will come to the Iron Horse Trail. Turn right and follow this old railroad grade/mountain bike route for approximately a quarter mile. Turn left onto an unsigned trail. The first cliff faces are found a short distance up the trail and the last are found approximately two miles from the trailhead.

 

Classic Climbs in Mount Washington:

 

Killer Bob, 5.9

 

Iguanarama, 5.10a

 

Tropicana, 5.10c

 

Stihl Fingers, 5.12a.

 

Deception Crags: From eastbound I-90, take Exit 38 and drive for approximately a half mile to a small creek and parking area. It is possible to see the old railroad trestle spanning the creek from the parking area. A small trail weaves its way up through the woods on the right hand side of the creek. This area has an extremely short approach to the first climbable rocks.

 

Classic Climbs in Deception Crags:

 

Flammable Pajamas, 5.5

 

Mom there's Pink in my Burger, 5.6

 

Your Sister, 5.7

 

Side Dish, 5.10c.

 

Books on North Bend routes:

 

"Exit 38 Rock Climbing Guide" by Garth Bruce (Free Solo, 254 pages, $24.95)

 

"Exit 32 Rock Climbing Guide" by Garth Bruce (Free Solo, 105 pages, $14.95)

 

"Rock Climbing: Washington" by Jeff Smoot (Falcon Guides, 484 pages, $24.95).

 

Internet sites:

 

www.northbendrock.com

 

www.cascadeclimbers.com

 

www.rockclimbing.com

 

 

Jason D. Martin is a writer, climber and mountain guide who splits his time between Seattle and Las Vegas. He can be reached at: j_dougie@yahoo.com.

 

Link to Article

[Dru]

what a great non sequiter

 

Rock climbers often use chalk to enhance their grip.

Theft along I-90 trailheads tends to be cyclic.

 

i gues the chalk quote is from a photo that wasnt included in your cut and paste?

[catbirdseat]

I tried to cut out the photo credits, but must not have gotten them all. I was waiting for Rudy to make a snide remark about how bad the climbing sucks at Exit 38.

[scott_harpell]

Her quickly locks off the rope, bringing her to an abrupt stop.

 

Her...

[catbirdseat]

Go read the original article knuckleheads. Anyway they gave bad directions for Exit 32. They gave the old ones. I don't think that was Jason's fault.

[scott_harpell]

Go read the original article knuckleheads. Anyway they gave bad directions for Exit 32. They gave the old ones. I don't think that was Jason's fault.

 

I did. I think a copy editor is gonna get canned over this!

[slothrop]

Yeah, the locals won't be pleased that this article tells people to park in the wrong spot and walk in front of their houses again. Perhaps the directions were taken from an old guidebook by the editor.

 

I'm not really impressed with the way placing gear is described as an "early" method... I thought I was reading about the Indonesian hobbits there for a second.

 

I liked reading about the area's history via Garth Bruce and Brian Burdo, and it's always amusing to read someone describe "how the rope got up there" to non-climbers. Nice job, Jason.

 

It's too bad no mention was made of the total lack of police reponse to the trailhead thefts, but at least the issue is getting some press.

[catbirdseat]

I've already sent an e-mail to Jason about it.

[Rad]

On the whole, this article is probably pretty good for the climbing community because it portrays climbers as responsible outdoor enthusiasts. The explanations were simple enough to be understood by reasonably bright non-climbers.

 

The biggest flaw, as Slothrop points out, is the Little Si access error.

 

Trad/sport/alpine distinctions are not central to the article, but it makes bolts sound like new and improved climbing rather than an alternative to trad placements.

 

Mentioning the theft problems without slamming the police for inaction is probably the best way to raise awareness without riling the coppers.

 

Yeah, the locals won't be pleased that this article tells people to park in the wrong spot and walk in front of their houses again. Perhaps the directions were taken from an old guidebook by the editor.

 

I'm not really impressed with the way placing gear is described as an "early" method...

[Lepton]

Bear in mind this is an article from the main stream press. As such, I'm very impressed that they were able to resist using terms like "she CRAWLED up the cliff". Interesting that they know that the reader of this article would not need an explanation for the ratings on the listed suggested climbs.

 

Gosh, sounds like there are enough easy routes for me to consider getting off the couch.

[RuMR]

I tried to cut out the photo credits, but must not have gotten them all. I was waiting for Rudy to make a snide remark about how bad the climbing sucks at Exit 38.

 

Seriously...i can't believe you actually like that choss pile??

 

And its gonna suck even worse once its covered in freshiez and skiers!!!