TNORM Posted October 10, 2004 Share Posted October 10, 2004 I am heading to climb izta and orizaba in JAn 05... I was wondering about hotels to stay in along the way(climber friendly)... First night will be in Mexico city JAN 1, 05.....Then heading to Izta(any places in Tlalmanalco or San Rafael?). We're climbing from the north (Directa al Pecho.).. From there were going to Orizaba. Stay at Tlachichuca or Zoapan(if there are places to stay?) Follow up questions..... Is POPO (el ventorrillo route) better than Izta? Seems like everyone talks about Izta...I am sure both will be just as crowded the first week of Jan.... Which brings me to my next ?......Tent, beta-med etc....? due to hut overfilling. Plastic or Leather with overboots? Anyone climbed Izta by Directa al Pecho? thanks for your beta peace Troy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swaterfall Posted October 10, 2004 Share Posted October 10, 2004 I go to Mex fairly often for work and fun and seriously man, avoid using the tap water until you can start melting snow. It would really suck to come down with something because you did something like brushing your teeth with bad water. Have a good trip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graupel Posted October 10, 2004 Share Posted October 10, 2004 Popo is still closed to climbing due to volcanic activity. I'm pretty sure that means the lodge at Tlamacas too. Senor Reyes has mentioned that folks in Zoapan are not necessarily friendly to climbers. We drove through there and had rocks thrown at us. There are several choices in Tlachichuca (at least three, including Senor Reyes' place). Tents are useful due to hut noise. Think of it like the Muir hut where folks have different schedules getting up all the time and making noise. Mexicans also like to come up to the hut and party, but not climb. Tent choice should take into account the primary reason you have it is wind. In my book, that doesn't make me think megamid as first choice. Also, there are rodents near the huts, so unless you don't mind them sprinting across your face, something you can close off from your surroundings would be advised. Overboots shouldn't be necessary. If your boot laces don't restrict your circulation, you could get by with leathers, but if you want to be sure on warmth plastics work too. For the most part, typical trips usually don't have fresh snow to risk getting leathers excessively wet. Keep in mind a fair amount of travel occurs not on snow too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esugi Posted October 15, 2004 Share Posted October 15, 2004 I've been to Orizaba twice (one successful summit) and climbed Izta back in February of this year. We did the Ayoloco Glacier on Izta so we stayed at Hotel San Carlos in Amecameca. About the only hotel in the area. Its adequate with bed but no hot water. I don't think you'll find much in Tlalmanalco or San Rafael. Most of these are small towns and not set for tourists or even climbers. I don't know much about directa el pecho (?) but can that be accessed from Paso de Cortez and La Joya? You can also stay at the microwave station passed Paso de Cortez, on the way to La Joya. We stayed with Reyes in Tlachichuca, both times. Price may be a little more but its about the surest thing with breakfast, dinner, white gas, transportation, etc. They're family has been guiding that mountain for nearly a century! Others I can't remember but can find info through www.summitpost.com. Yes, Popo is closed. It routinely releases gas still. No overboots needed. My entire team used plastics with great results. Remember, Orizaba is considered high altitude climbing and it could get cold if the wind is particularly strong on the summit day. We turned back in 2003 due to high winds (gusting to 60 mph). Tent vs hut...hummm...personal preference I guess. We tented it my first time. Hated it because the area gets so dusty. I was blowing dust out of my nose for several days. Also our tent got flattened by the wind night before summit day. We stayed at the big hut this year. Didn't particularly like that either. Although it was fun talking to the mexican, german, british climbers...good times sharing stories. We did get walken up by rude locals who came in around 10pm. We were getting up at midnight so you might guess, I was pissed off. Have fun and check out www.summitpost.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkemp Posted October 15, 2004 Share Posted October 15, 2004 We approached Orizaba from the east. When I was there the hut's roof was loose on one corner, so it flapped when the wind blew hard - "clang! clang! clang!" all night long. Sheesh, just try to sleep through that! And the mice running across my face didnt help, and all that made worse by the altitude headache. None of us slept except my pal Sandy, who had the nerve to sleep like a baby - we all wanted to strangle him! Despite lack of sleep, it sure was fun, and a great way to beat the WA rain. That place was sunny as could be. old Bushwhacker Newsletter TR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 i would approach the pecho from the la joya trailhead. it is an easy taxi ride from amecameca and then an afternoons walk to the hut below the route. it would be easier to deproach to tlalmanaco rather than approach imo. popo farts way too much to make it worth climbing/dying for. leather is the way to go (it just aint that cold there). use the huts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 El Trono Blanco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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