Challenger glacier route

[eric8]

I'm planning on doing the Challenger glacier route on Challenger next week, and was wondering if anyone has been up their recently? If you could tell me what kind of shape the Challenger glacier is in. Also, the last rock step is listed as 5.7+ in Nelsons guide and 5.5 in Beckeys, who is more accurate here? Because there is a big difference in the amount of pro I'm going to bring if I'll be leading on 5.7+ in mountaineering boots verious 5.5. Thanks eric

[whiplash]

Last year when we were up there the summit rock pitch had 4 fixed pins on the lower section, we used a few medium sized nuts to protect the upper section. I'd say it's closer to 5.5 than 5.7. No idea what kind of shape the glacier is in.

[David_Parker]

I'd say the (one) move is about 5.6. The rest is easy. You can do it in mountain boots as all the moves are edges or friction; no feet jambing. It's a complete joke to bring rock shoes on Challenger! You should bring about 4-6 pieces in the 1-3 inch range. If you need a 3 point anchor for alpine climbing, bring more.

[proper]

We were up there mid august. Brought a set of stoppers but didn't use any of them. Just used the fixed gear on the summit block and the biners and runners from our glacier gear. Climbed it in our boots and can't imagine using rock shoes. Very good edges and good holds. As for the glacier, it was straight forward. Ended up camping at 7500ft so made for a short summit bid. A fantastic alpine backpacking trip...you'll have fun.

[eric8]

Thanks for the beta

[Cpt.Caveman]

Thanks for the vhs

[Greg_W]

Thanks for the DVD (VHS & Beta are soooo '80's)