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[TR] Boula Boula Buttress- 9/25/2004


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Climb: Boula Boula Buttress-

 

Date of Climb: 9/25/2004

 

Trip Report:

Dan Cappellini, Eric Wherley, and I climbed a line that was probably new on Boula Boula Butress in the Enchantments. From what we could tell our line was left of Yoder and Co.'s line that climbed the clean white rock on the east face.

Our line was just right of the central prow. We encountered primarily solid rock, but also a lot of dirt and vegetation filled cracks. There was also a lot of nice clean flakes and some really nice climbing. The hardest pitch was led by Eric and consisted of steep stemming in a corner where most of the usable cracks were filled in with dirt and vegetation. Eric took a nice 25 footer here, before getting back on the horse and finishing the pitch. He also encountered a steep right trending wet crack and used some aid to bypass this section as the crack was very slimy and wet but would probably go free at easy 5.11 if dry. The followers bypassed this to the right by making a 5.10 face move on brilliant rock.

 

The final pitch was led by Dan through bomber 5.9 flakes to a left leaning undercling / hand crack and a wild layback mantle move to finish. It was rather licheny and dirty, but once cleaned by Dan on lead made a superb 10a pitch for the followers.

 

That pitch topped out right on the summit which was very cool. In sum: Nine pitches, III+ , 10+ (with some C1); nice belay ledges.

 

The next day we did the Fred Stanley route on Prussik. All in all a beautiful fall weekend in the Enchantments with stellar fall colors and lots of sun and moon shine.

 

Gear Notes:

rock climbing equipment

 

Approach Notes:

Ass Guard Pass

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