Glacier Peak this weekend

[IMAM]

I am planning on climbing Glacier Peak this weekend and trying to choose a route. I have narrowed it to three (most popular): Sitkum Glacier, Frostbite Ridge, or Disappointment Peak Cleaver. I'm interested in opinions of the routes by people that have done them and in the current conditions of these routes. Thanks in advance.

[JoshK]

These are 3 very different routes. Sitkum glacier is a really straightforward glacier climb, and, in my opinion, pretty boring. It's the most straightforward route to the summit, however. Disappointment peak cleaver is really just a long scramble route requiring only minimal walking over some very tame glaciers. Frostbite ridge is the only technical route of the bunch, and if you are looking for something interesting, it's your best bet. I've never done it, however, and I am not sure of current conditions, so somebody else would have to answer to that.

[iain]

I prefer the Chinook directissima descent.

 

badum ching!

[hasbeen]

I'll second the vote for Frostbite Ridge. It's a fun route. I was on it about a month and a half ago so my observations about conditions won't be worth much but ice was starting to show on the steeper sections below the rabbit ears at that time. There were pretty good steps all the way up from the descent after going through the ears. Have fun.

[rodeo]

I'll second the note on the Sitkum route. The approach is approx 7 mi, then it's pretty much a steep hike to "High Camp" and after that there's not a whole lot to it. Considering how late the snow kept falling up there this year, it shouldn't be too cut up on that route yet. I haven't been up there yet this year so you'd definitely want to find a better source of info in that regard.

 

(--Climb on,,

[terrible_ted]

I was on the Sitkum route about three weeks ago. It's a walk-up. You'd need good visibility and death wish to find a crevasse big enough to fall in - but I never underestimate the blindness of strangers...

 

-t

[IMAM]

Thanks for the info so far. I am leaning towards Frostbite Ridge at this time. How technical is it? I don't own a second tool or ice screws. Are those typically needed on this route? Thanks.

[DavidG]

quote:

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Originally posted by IMAM:

Thanks for the info so far. I am leaning towards Frostbite Ridge at this time. How technical is it? I don't own a second tool or ice screws. Are those typically needed on this route? Thanks.

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I did Frostbite two or three weeks ago. I would recommend a second tool and perhaps ice screws depending on your experience. I am pretty new to ice, and found ~40 degree ice quite interesting without a second tool. Luckily one of our team of three brought one and was able to belay the rest of us up two sections of ice. We found ice right below the rabbit ears (which we could have avoided by trudging up very loose and annoying pumice) and going up from the crater.

 

We did a carry-over and went down sitkum. I agree with everyone else sitkum is boring. It would probably be a good route for a first-timer because of its very non-technical nature. Frostbite however has a little of everything from snow to ice to 3rd class scrambling (fun)!

 

One thing to note is that it is a bit difficult to retreat on the frostbite route. Much better to carry-over. Bring extra slings and a rap ring just in case circumstances require a retreat.

[mattp]

IMAM -

Tools and screws are optional. As DavidG noted, they could have walked around the first ice patch, and I believe they could have climbed around the second one, too. But also as he noted, the ice may have been a more pleasant alternative and the extra tool came in handy. Glacier Peak is beautiful. Enjoy.

[Ned_Flanders]

Frostbite ridge is a very fun climb. Jim Nelson rates it a grade III, but I disagree. I did it about 3 weeks ago. There was some ice below the rabbit ears and we ran into 50-60 degree ice before the summit. A tool and screws were useful and fun. That was the only time the rope was used. We descended the Sitkum in a complete witeout and only saw 1 crevasse and it was pretty small. I agree, that is a boring snow walk and the upper part doesnt even have snow, there is a path through dirt for 1000 feet.