DPS Posted September 15, 2004 Share Posted September 15, 2004 (edited) I have a garage with 11' ceilings and about 12 feet of free wall space. I am considering putting in a bouldering wall. In your experience is a well designed wall of this size worth the trouble and expense or does it get boring real quick? Edited September 15, 2004 by danielpatricksmith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted September 15, 2004 Share Posted September 15, 2004 I have built 5 different walls, they only get as stale as you let them. With the long winters, a good steep wall is usually the best, as easy gets boring faster. You say you have 12' of wall? design a wall with 3 angles getting steeper the closer you get to the back corner of the garage. The best part of having a wall is having friends get together to build one. The more holds each person can contribute the better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted September 15, 2004 Share Posted September 15, 2004 Depends on how motivated you are, and if there's a local climbing gym that you and/or your friends usually attend. In DFA's experience, most home walls are met with an initial outpouring of stoke, but enthusiasm usually dwindles as people get back to their more usual, more convenient, gym routine. If you've got a motivated posse, though, without other training options or gym commitments, the home gym could kick ass. Â Give it a good honest assessment, is all. If you don't think you'd get tons of use out of it, just think how far the hundreds or thousands you'd spend on the home wall could get you on a road trip. Cha-ching! Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted September 15, 2004 Author Share Posted September 15, 2004 (edited) I generally dislike climbing gyms for a variety of reasons. The only artifical wall I like is the UW wall where I just do laps on the cracks for exercise. I figure I could build a gently over hanging section with 3-4 different size cracks and maybe a steeper cave like section. Â To complete the experience, I will hire a big blond guy to tape up his hands real good and tell me conspiracy theories. Edited September 15, 2004 by danielpatricksmith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted September 15, 2004 Share Posted September 15, 2004 Home walls are a great way to make up for most gyms shortcomings: drytooling, cracks, and system boards. I have yet to find a gym that will let me bring my tools in. And you can make a crack wall for super cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted September 15, 2004 Share Posted September 15, 2004 Are you going to get Nick climbing again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted September 15, 2004 Share Posted September 15, 2004 I just built a wall that for the time being measures 8' wide by 10' high. The incline goes from about -25 deg, to -45, to horizontal. I can get plenty pumped on it already, but I'll probably add a few more panels at some point. Most of the holds are homemade from polyester resin. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cman Posted September 15, 2004 Share Posted September 15, 2004 I was just reading this yesterday from metolius How to build a home bouldering wall it looks like it would be a fun project. Â just make sure you can afford to buy lots of holds. many holds and a good variety will definitely make it more interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted September 15, 2004 Share Posted September 15, 2004 Cracks? You might as well skip the cracks. Rarely do they feel or act like the real thing. Besides, they take up valuable real estate. Just get strong climbing on plastic and take your new strength to the real rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted September 15, 2004 Share Posted September 15, 2004 Hey, Dan, need some help putting one up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted September 15, 2004 Share Posted September 15, 2004 I was thinking about how to build a crack for jamming. Two 2x6's fixed close together, maybe starting finger-sized and widening out at the wall gets steeper. However I have no idea how to make a durable, high-friction, yet comfortable texture. Actually, thing is I can just go down to the UW rock if I want to practice my jams, so I don't really see the point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted September 15, 2004 Share Posted September 15, 2004 This one was a favorite space saving design... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted September 15, 2004 Share Posted September 15, 2004 Â AlpineDave's home gym has the panels attached to the wall in such a way that he can easily change the angle. I think they have a hinge at the bottom and are attached via chain at the top. Pretty cool idea to consider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike_G Posted September 16, 2004 Share Posted September 16, 2004 If you have kids, it will definitely be worth it. My 2 and 5 year olds are all over our wall. I made it variable enough that we can all get a workout on it: a little vertical, a big roof, a 20 degree overhang, and a 50 degree over hang. It also goes horizontal for a few feet on the ceiling. Â Mine is about 15' wide and 11' high, and I haven't gotten bored in the last year and a half. I have a lot o' holds, though. However, I haven't even changed their placement yet. Â Good luck to you. Â Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ketch Posted September 16, 2004 Share Posted September 16, 2004 I was thinking about how to build a crack for jamming. , maybe starting finger-sized and widening out at the wall gets steeper. However I have no idea how to make a durable, high-friction, yet comfortable texture. Â I don't have the space for a wall so I just built a crack. I used a couple of 16 2x10s with a several pieces of all thread zig zagged on the back half. I carry it in and put it away then hang it on the side of the place when I want to climb. The all thread lets me change the width and taper of the crack with very little hassle. I got good results from using that rubber grit deck paint that they make for tennis courts. Nothing feels like rock put the rubber grit is good on the hands for the practice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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