All of a sudden going to Gunks

[dkemp]

A couple of my pals go to the Gunks each year after Labor Day. They asked me but I said No, I'm too busy, blah blah blah. So my pal says, "Dude, work it out!" Well, I couldnt very well argue against that. All of a sudden, I've got a ticket! I leave in the morning!

 

Any suggestions for a beginner leader at the Gunks? ( I think I could count my trad leads on two hands ).

[catbirdseat]

Have fun and be safe.

[Rad]

Try following before leading there.

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB1&Number=389824&Forum=All_Forums&Words=broken%20sling&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Main=389767&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=4222&daterange=0&newerval=&newertype=&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post389824

[willstrickland]

Oooh You are in for a treat!

 

"High Exposure" makes a good first Gunks lead. At 5.6 it sounds ridiculously easy right?

It will probably be the most memorable 5.6 you'll ever climb in your life!Usually done as 3 pitches.

Make sure you get the last pitch lead.

 

 

Nice eh?

 

"Shockley's Ceiling" is another memorable 5.6

 

"Madame G" is yet another great 5.6 and Bonnie's Roof is a nice 5.8+

 

My quip to westerners visiting the gunks for the first time goes something like this:

"Take the rating of the route and that's about how many feet long the crux roof will be"

 

It's not much of an exagerration in many cases. Also, take your tricams, there are tons of horizontals.

[Jim]

Great beginner leads -

 

Easy overhang - 5.2

Easy V 5.2

Rusty Trifle 5.2

Three Pines 5.3

 

All solid protection, great gunks exposure, and the usual excellent rock. I'm jealous - it's a great time of year to get back there.

[Rad]

Avoid camp slime

[JosephH]

You are going to have a very, very good time...

 

As others have said, second as many good routes as humanly possible and pick up a few classic easy leads for yourself -- but try to second as much as possible and really study the pro. It's a great opportunity, at a fabulous place, at a perfect time of year...

[dkemp]

Thanks all!

 

I just stopped by Seth's and borrowed his guidebooks - good airplane reading, as I've never looked at any guidebook material about the Gunks before.

 

Yay, I leave in the morning!

D

[PaulB]

Avoid camp slime

I heard camp slime had been shut down. Too bad, it was a convenient place to crash.

[ken4ord]

There was absolutely nothing wrong with Camp Slime for a place to throw down for the evening. Little bit of traffic, sometime crowded, but all the times I camped there I met some cool folk, kickin it drinking beer making plans for routes the next day. I will alway have good memories sit out on top of Near Trapps, drinking a beer, smoking little something, and shooting the breeze.

 

As for easy beginer climbs I would say Gelsa at 5.4 is your best choice. Then Easy O, 3 Pines, and the Horseman for a beginer challenge. If you feel comfortable with those then give some of the others a try like Shockley's, Disneyland, High E. I will tell you though when I went down there and climbed High E I was a 5.8 leader at the time, but that route scared the shit out of me, that second pitch is steep and in your face.

 

Have fun.

[cman]

the one time i climbed there was awesome. i got on a 5.5 that had a huge roof on it. the route actually skirts around the roof but it was definitely intimidating. can't wait to go back.

[johndavidjr]

Useful route list .3-.12., in link below. Site is Gunks' answer to CascadeClimbers.com-- but not as interesting. Gunks are only a mile long-- if you only count the Trapps where most listed routes are located.

 

http://www.gunks.com/index.php?pageid=74&pagenum=1&smGroup=2&smID=5

[dkemp]

Whew, Gunks is an all time great crag!

 

Ignoring the good advice given above, we went to Easy Overhang and I promptly led the first pitch of that great route. Rob led the second. I then led the first pitch of Shockleys, Rob led the second, and Randy the wow, third pitch. Awesome climb!

 

Yesterday we climbed Gelsa. Again, wow, what an awesome route. I led the first, Randy the second, then I led the freakin awesome third pitch. Best pitch I ever led. Randy then led first pitch of Yellow Ridge. I did the second but got off route. Randy bailed us out - uh....whoops!

 

Today we climbed High Exposure - Randy led both pitches. I pulled over that thing - whoo hoo! - then up the face - yow! We rappelled in rain and its been raining ever since.

 

Here are three pics.

 

Me leading third pitch of Gelsa:

 

Randy starting up Yellow Ridge:

 

Me starting out ill-fated second pitch of Yellow Ridge - whats the worst that can happen, right?

[johndavidjr]

It's good to go during the week. Here's the endorsements on your two photo routes in a section of gunks.com, which has a lot of commentary that occassionally gets a little hyped, as in the two write-ups below.

 

Yellow Ridge (5.7-)

The total Gunks sampler: a choice of tricky starts, a Wiessner offwidth, lots of exposed moderate traversing, and a huge-but-only-5.6 roof finish. - steven cherry

 

To call this climb an easy 7 will be a rude slap at the visiting moderate leader. The start is tough and has repelled many who are solid 8 leaders, even if the gear is fine. It is a great climb for anyone. - chip

 

Gelsa 5.4

For its last pitch. Absolutely stellar climbing-dead vertical, but good holds and pro all the way, in an awesome setting. The quintessential gunks 5.3 pitch. - irishare

[akunamatata]

Gunks are great! don't forget to stop by the store Rock and snow ant New Paltz, the town next to the cliff, and get the book, it is really good book! You can be climbing 3 star climbs for the whole day. Madame G is awesome (5.6), Horseman (5.7), Beginners Delight (5.5?). Go to www.gunks.com, you will find everything there. There is a hostal in town you can crash at, in New Paltz, the owner is a very nice dude, $30 per night, includes milk, cereals, bread and eggs in the morning, it has internet and it is very close to the centre of town. I will be there in October 10th, I can't wait!!! Have fun!