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Favorite UW Rock problems


sexual_chocolate

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quote:

Originally posted by klar404:

I just wanna know how much time Coach did. And I just gotta voice "my" opinion that plastic pants man sucks! He was drillin' golf balls over me at Vantage.Give a hoot, don't pollute, Fucker!

Plastic pants man? Are you talking about the crazy blonde kid? What's the plastic pants all about? Are you the dude with PRANA logo tatoo?

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quote:

Originally posted by pope:

Most impressive high-ball I've seen: on the Stadium side of the tower, the left side of this face (between widening crack and left edge), no rocks for the feet!

24 Hour Tobacconeer. Only hard at the start (hard is a relative term...). A new one's being worked on that eliminates about half the rocks. Truly frightening with potentially serious consequences!

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quote:

Originally posted by offwidthclimber:

oh. i've always been curious...

 

what are the general ratings for some of the classics at the UW rock?

 

coach's crack?

off fists crack right of coach's crack?

finger crack on the east end slab?

any of the other cracks at the rock?

Coach Crack: 5.10?

Off-width: 5.10?

Finger crack: 5.10+?

Most others between 5.9 and 5.11, with the short overhanging finger-crack by the water-side slab definitely 5.12?

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A 1-move dyno from the north side of the tall central tower to the slightly overhung north side of another wall wit da 'pull-up' rock. Pull with both hands (I like 'em crossed-up) and roll, push with right foot to launch like an AStROnaut to grab/cling/hug/straddle da 'pull-up' rock [Eek!] And gently meet the opposite wall [Wink]

 

...Just 1 thought

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quote:

Originally posted by pope:

quote:

Originally posted by sexual chocolate:

Does everyone know Coach Crack? It's the good hand crack on the water side, furthest east wall. Layback the left side, features only for feet, no crack for feet. A good one! V4?

This is known as "Satan's Layback". I showed it to Eric Winkleman and he cruised it like it was 5.8.


The book lists it as a VH (they estimate 5.11/5.11+).
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My favorite UW rock problem is a Coach creation: The LogBig run.

 

Having lived with Coach I can say that he is a fine gentleman and, despite his ravings, he is intelligent and genuine. He has contributed much to the wall, including culture.

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