layton Posted September 7, 2004 Share Posted September 7, 2004 how are the pitches above the psycopath pitch? Just curious, the route has been on my mind ever since I rapped off from the top of the psycopath the other day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted September 7, 2004 Share Posted September 7, 2004 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted September 7, 2004 Share Posted September 7, 2004 above psychopath: Â p1: mellow 9+/10a p2: not sustained but difficult and strenuous in a few spots. I thought it was 5.11. p3: long 10c sustained but not as strenuous as last pitch (its shy of vert) p4: pressure chamber pitch. quite enjoyable until the last 15 ft (for me!) p5: 10a immediately above the pressure chamber, easing to 5.8 with one 5.9 move out over the final roof. Â http://www.mountainwerks.org/alexk/climb/TRspace.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted September 7, 2004 Author Share Posted September 7, 2004 Thanks Alex! Darin? WTF does "6" mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted September 7, 2004 Share Posted September 7, 2004 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted September 7, 2004 Author Share Posted September 7, 2004 7.1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted September 7, 2004 Share Posted September 7, 2004 WTF? 7.1a+ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted September 7, 2004 Share Posted September 7, 2004 Serious Zylon 7. Â Defenitly some Nylon 7 for me as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatswaller Posted September 7, 2004 Share Posted September 7, 2004 (edited) above psychopath P1.easy 5.8/5.9 crack through overlap P2.5.10 through bulge with fixed pins,a little dirty, rated 5.10b P3. left facing corner with a thin crack,about 5.9 P4. steep cracks up corner to belay under the pressure chamber,also a little dirty,5.10a according to my partner. P5. climb the chamber usually with cluster of fixed gear, also for aiding.Step right and lay back to roof.Climb roof,end of P5.and climb. or something like that. buy me a half pint and I'll tell it all. Edited September 9, 2004 by fatswaller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 8, 2004 Share Posted September 8, 2004 compare fatswaller post to alex post your choice of beta and grades! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lunger Posted September 8, 2004 Share Posted September 8, 2004 i vote for alex's description, spot-on. Â the pressure chamber is Zylon 7. and it's pressure as in dentist-speak, "you're going to feel a little pressure here." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted September 8, 2004 Author Share Posted September 8, 2004 Did I mention I need a partner for this on friday? PM me for some fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted September 8, 2004 Share Posted September 8, 2004 I've donew the route a couple of times, and the upper pitches are always the ass kicker and I think are harder than the "crux" psychopath pitch. As Alex mentioned, P1 above PP is a very nice 5.9/10a pitch. P2 is a very nice and a little dirty 10c corner of Iconoclast. P3 can be done in several ways but starts from a bolt anchor, makes a leftward change from one corner system to the next, then goes further left to a headwall sort of thing. This is the place that has always confused me. You have two optoins: hard 5.11ish face climbing on the right or an easier dirty corner with iffy pro on the left. I'm not sure what the exact way is, but I've always face climbed on the right. After that pitch you can set up a belay by a tree, which is the only obvious belay spot. The next pitch is the Pressure Chamber pitch and is a fairly long pitch. It starts off with sustained 5.10 climbing up finger and thin hand cracks to a chimeny that spits you out below the final overhang which is rated 10d, but felt much harder. Pull the overhang in whatever style you can muster and belay above from a hanging belay. The next pitch is a 5.10-, very dirty pitch to the top or you can set up an intermediate belay. Very good a sustained climb. Have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardKorry Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 And if you are the second and are carrying a pack, either clip it to your harness or have the leader plan on pulling it up. I found the chimney section near impossible to climb with a pack and I french freed the Pressure Chamber all the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted September 14, 2004 Share Posted September 14, 2004 I've led pressure chamber once and followed it once. I had to hang and pull on gear both times. It is tough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted September 15, 2004 Share Posted September 15, 2004 apparently according to dan there is a key foothold in the pressure chamber that makes it 10+; i was following his brilliant onsight and almost got the sequence before peeling out of the fist jam and flying into space... not sure if i have ever been as scared on toprope before but i do remember refusing the offer to lower me down and try again; opting for pulling up on the rope and scraping my way to the belay... someday i will go for a rematch, though I need to be on the sharpend when it happens. such a sweet route... if you like that direct snowcreek route, try the northern dihedral 9+ +dirt. keep it real! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.