scrambled_legs Posted September 3, 2004 Share Posted September 3, 2004 Well I got so much good info on the daks that I thought I should see what the most suggested 5.8-5.11 climbs are in the gunks. One catch though, I'm leaving in 5 hours. Thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceIceBaby Posted September 3, 2004 Share Posted September 3, 2004 Something Interesting .7+, with Dangler .10a finish (take ma picture take ma picture) Modern time .8 (Cant believe this is an 8 what an expo) MF .9 ( that what you’ll say when you pull the crux) Bonnie's roof .8+/9 ( Ohh babe what a route… possible 9+ finish from the ledge) Never never land .10a (da rouf da rouf is an fire) Birdie party .10a (Very easy now…almost…almost…damn!!!) Directississima (AKA Doublissima) .10b ( did you eat your spinach Popeye) Welcome to the Gunks .10b ( Yeah…. Shit--AHhhhhhh) Nurses aid .10c ( why am I here …Mommy) Matinee .10d ( wat da fuk Chouinard was thinking when he put this...Halp MEEEEEEEE!!!!) They all in the Traps and fairly close to each other However, you talking Gunks here so dial it down at least two notches to see how comfortable you are in whole trad leading PS Generally speaking the pro is excellent and the friction sucks the typical rack is set of nuts, up to #2 Camelots Aliens Blue, Green, Yellow and Pink and Red Tricams with the Aliens and Tricams being the most used pieces Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted September 3, 2004 Share Posted September 3, 2004 Son of Easy O - 8 Cascading Crystal Kalidascope 9 Doug's Roof 11 Bonnie's roof 9? Modern Times 10? Welcome to the Gunks 10 Three pines direct 9 Directismma 10 Great lower moderates that will stack up well to anything in the west. High Exposure 6 Shockely's Ceiling 6 High Corner 7 Horseman 6 Disneyland 6 Excellent place to be in the late summer/early autumn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceIceBaby Posted September 3, 2004 Share Posted September 3, 2004 Bonnies is 8+/9 modern Time is 8/8+ CCK direct is 9 CCK is 7 horseman is 5 Directissima is 9 High E is 6+ three pine Direct??? do you mean the Dangler 10a (great finish for "something interesting" 7+) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted September 3, 2004 Share Posted September 3, 2004 Get the Gunks Select book by Dick Williams. Really, its hard to not find a good route at the gunks. the crux is waiting in line. Just about all the routes at the trapps are amazing. Must do routes are Madame G and High Exposure. Have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NYC007 Posted September 3, 2004 Share Posted September 3, 2004 GO TO GUNKS.COM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pzack Posted September 3, 2004 Share Posted September 3, 2004 The climbing is a lot different. The rock takes gear differently. I would take it easy for the first climb or two until you get used to the rock. double up on red&pink tricam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted September 3, 2004 Share Posted September 3, 2004 I agree to doing a couple of easier routes to get used to the rock and pro. The climbing is very different and protection is mostly good, but you can´t get a piece whenever you want, and typically there are longer run outs. I use a lot of small to medium cams. You won´t need much bigger than a yellow camalot. red and pink tri cams are the shizzle for the gunks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted September 3, 2004 Share Posted September 3, 2004 All good climbs listed. Note: Gunks ratings are pretty stiff and protection is almost all trad and not always straightforward. Think pink and red tricams in horizontal pockets. You might want to warm up on something below your limit. I tried to lead MF onsight my second trip down there and got spanked, making my way to the top only after several whippers. Usually 5.9 is easy money, but that one had my number! A few more classics to add to the list: Roseland 5.9 Birdland 5.8? Ants line 5.9 Broken sling 5.8+ Have a great trip. Fall is the perfect time to be there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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