last minute butte action!

[sketchfest]

My partners are all busy working and can't seem to get away on this beautiful afternoon. I planned on hitting Rocky Butte for a bit and will solo/TR if no one else can climb, but would much rather lead a few easy .7 &.8 and maybe a little .10c. If interested shoot me a PM in the next 15-20 minutes and let's go climb

[sketchfest]

Ok, well it was worth a shot. I'll be down by Video Bluff climbing by myself so give a shout it you happen to show up.

[schnitzem]

d

[iain]

I think you mispelled 8=D

[billcoe]

Missed you: maybe next time Paul.

[sketchfest]

Hi Bill

 

I got to Video Bluff around 4:45 and did some rope soloing on Eve of Destruction and that .8 corner to the right of it. I think I headed out about 7:00, thought I saw your car down by B-Cracks as I drove by.

[Hanger]

We were climbing over on toothpick wall.

 

Bill set up Blueberry Jam (5.10) and Toothpick (5.11c)

 

I kept looking for the paddle on Toothpick...cuz I was getting my ass SPANKED!!!

[rbw1966]

Did you get any action paul?

[sketchfest]

Hanger, let me see if I can picture out this scenario. You and Bill set up on Blueberry and Toothpick. Bill quickly does several laps on Blueberry and then gives you a belay. Bill is now ready to give Toothpick a go and quickly pulls through the crux with MAYBE one hang, but basically makes the route look pretty easy. Now it’s your turn and off you go feeling confident after watching Bill. You quickly find that the first crux is wicked hard, bulging with pretty good feet, but terrible hands….you hang. After a minutes rest you launch into it again….you hang. You repeat this or a variation there of for some time making very slow progress up the face until finally you think you can go no further and you look down to Bill and say, “Uuuuhhh, I’m cooked man, go ahead and lower me.” To which Bill responds, “No! you can do it, you’re almost there!” The flailing begins anew, until you somehow manage to thrutch your way to the anchor, exhausted and dripping in sweat. At least this was my experience with Bill on Toothpick, that guy is a strong ass climber, don’t let him tell you otherwise. I’m not sure if he’s just trying to help me be a better climber or just takes a sadistic joy in watching me whine and suffer.

 

Rob, I always get action when I rope solo…Don’t you?

[rbw1966]

I don't go in search of butt action, roped or solo.

[sketchfest]

whatever ya pimp!

[Hanger]

SF,

 

Nailed it to a freakin' T

 

He peeled while slapping for the first reachy fingerlock...after that, it was all him.

 

I gave it a run...figured it was .11-ish...cuz Bill sent me a PM asking if was feeling strong. So I could only assume he had some work cut out for me.

I got worked...and now have the moves permanently etched in my mind (which is what happens when you do the same moves over and over and over and over again) LoL

 

He hops back on it...I keep the rope snug but not tight through the opening sequence to keep him from crushing the ferns below. Other than that, it was ALL him.

 

For the "Couch Master" he makes short work of those sustained routes

 

Bad-Ass Bill, we call him

 

LoL

[Ireneo_Funes]

Bill puts me to shame every time I climb with him - glad to hear I'm not the only one!

[rbw1966]

You are in the middle of a very long line.

[Hanger]

What are you sayin?!

 

That I'm getting sloppy 42nds???

 

EEEEWWWW!!!

 

 

lol

[billcoe]

If those are compliments grrreeeatttt! Thanks: I like climbing with all you cause you are all so technically competent: and man, it just makes my day to run out after work and in a couple of hours get wasted.

 

Probably a good thing WW doesn't live around here, he'd be kicking everyones butt(e) on that route. One time @ well over 20 years ago zI suppose, when toothpick was a hard route, I went walking by the base and Wayne (112) was TR soloing the thing with 1 jumar.....man, he was looking so unbelievably smooth. I didn't see a backup knot or any other attachments that I remember. I watched him cruise the crux like it was 5.6, I remember thinking he didn't even really needed the rope.

 

Now for the sad news: The "Couchmaster" didn't arrange anything for this weekend except family time Sunday. Does anyone need a belay Sat or Mon? If not, I might go clean that line just to the right of For Petes Sake out at Petes Pile. Maybe the route just to the left as well (its still way right of Gillotine). Anyone know if thats been done? There's at least 2" of moss on the right one, so you wouldn't think so. The left one has had a few spots cleaned, as if someone did a lead and brushed off only the holds and a few spots for pro.

 

Any Beta about those? Been done before and have names but just left filthy?