texplorer Posted August 13, 2004 Share Posted August 13, 2004 What are you guys (and prana-top wearers) up to this weekend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ireneo_Funes Posted August 13, 2004 Share Posted August 13, 2004 Thinking about checking out Beacon Rock on Sunday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted August 13, 2004 Author Share Posted August 13, 2004 It is supposedly going to be cooler this weekend. Ireneo, Beacon goes in the shade around 2-ish so a late start is not necessarily a bad idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ireneo_Funes Posted August 13, 2004 Share Posted August 13, 2004 That's good to know. We probably won't be getting there until 10 or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted August 14, 2004 Share Posted August 14, 2004 Glacier and I are hitting Index early Saturday to get some pitches in before it gets too hot.  Inner Wall may be decent, as well. Plus the skykomish is right there for the cool dip  Get in yo and ride,, ride!  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted August 14, 2004 Share Posted August 14, 2004 R&R with the grandparents from Wisconsin. drink wine, swim and maybe a little grotto session. perhaps watch the dryden fire burn..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted August 14, 2004 Share Posted August 14, 2004 Put up something new and have no fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted August 14, 2004 Share Posted August 14, 2004 bummer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 14, 2004 Share Posted August 14, 2004 Beacon today (fri. - was great) - Beacon tomorrow (sat.) - maybe Sunday too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 16, 2004 Share Posted August 16, 2004 Was out at Beacon Sat. and tried going up through the corner blocks from the chains around the corner (to the right) from Young Warriors. Not recommended - veneers of loose rocks (in the tons) to the left low and right high (over the belayer), a sea of moss covered, downward slopping edges, and a pecker crack that would take a lot of cleaning - a fun down climb from it though...again, probably better not to venture up that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 16, 2004 Share Posted August 16, 2004 Joesph, there are 2 sets of chains in that area. The chains on the left are Boardwalk and the chains on the right are Raindance. Was it a trad climb or bolts? Â Sounds like an adventure! Like some of the crap out there, it could be 5.12 X until the stuff gets cleaned then it turns out being a moderate 5.6-5.7 Â Â How high did you get? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 16, 2004 Share Posted August 16, 2004 Bill, I went up from the chains on the left, then stepped left onto the top of that block you're looking at (with the pin in it) when you're at the belay - didn't get very far after that. Once at that point you are standing on the top of the 5'X 15' stack of loose 6" veneer. The crack above then turns into a 12" left facing dihedral and that whole right hand surface making that dihedral is another loose 12" veneer right over the chains. Â Even if you cleaned is all, and it is a sea of downward sloping layers carpeted with 2" think moss, the crack would still need peckers or crack'n'ups to lead. Â I definitely misjudged what I was looking at from Young Warriors. I had fully expected it to be fairly clean. Now I have to go figure out what I was looking at. I'm sure there are a couple of good routes up through the corner blocks; you just can't stray right too far or the rock goes to hell pretty quick. Â In 1980, on my first trip out to Beacon, my partner and I tried to push through up through the big roofs in the middle of the east face and also beat a hasty retreat from up there in the face of an endless expanse of expanding [stacked, thin] veneers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 Joseph, are these corners your talking about above and to the right of the second pitch anchors on young warriors. it appears as if there is 2 oe 3 left facing corners next to each other. i was looking at them with jim last time i was out their and they looked really good. never ventured up for a closer look though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 Mark, I'm not sure about the configuration of the blocks, but the second/third pitch anchors is where I was looking from. Again, it seems like there ought to be a couple of routes up there through it all... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 were you leaving the couch belay(top of third pitch) when you were heading into this bad looking rock? if so i've noticed that piton up and to the right(10ft above 2 piton anchor) and always wandered where it went to. Â it seems like you could climb from the ground directly to the corners 200ft up. that would be a really cool line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 Bill, I went up from the chains on the left, then stepped left onto the top of that block you're looking at (with the pin in it) when you're at the belay - didn't get very far after that. Once at that point you are standing on the top of the 5'X 15' stack of loose 6" veneer. The crack above then turns into a 12" left facing dihedral and that whole right hand surface making that dihedral is another loose 12" veneer right over the chains. Even if you cleaned is all, and it is a sea of downward sloping layers carpeted with 2" think moss, the crack would still need peckers or crack'n'ups to lead.  I definitely misjudged what I was looking at from Young Warriors. I had fully expected it to be fairly clean. Now I have to go figure out what I was looking at. I'm sure there are a couple of good routes up through the corner blocks; you just can't stray right too far or the rock goes to hell pretty quick.  In 1980, on my first trip out to Beacon, my partner and I tried to push through up through the big roofs in the middle of the east face and also beat a hasty retreat from up there in the face of an endless expanse of expanding [stacked, thin] veneers.  Not sure where that is exactly, but it already sounds like a classic. Course you'll have to tear off at least the first 12" of loose rock without killing your belayer or chopping the rope is what it sounds like! Hard to do on lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 Bill, Â As I said, if you go straight up from the crack immediately left (2') from the lefthand chains you'll end up in the same unpleasant and somewhat dangerous situation - to bad as it looks so inviting from the chains and ground, but it's like stepping into a differnt reality when you turn the corner... Â ---------------------------------------------------------- Â Mark, Â I'm not sure what the couch belay is (I've never looked at a guide book or climbed with any of you guys who know the names and history of everything...). Climbing it from the ground up was what I was trying to do going up to the chains (Boardwalk is what Bill called it). Â After we got down I started looking at going up around the right side of the block by go up and right from the chains on what I believe Bill called Raindance. It's cleaner but the bit from the chains up and right looks a bit sketchy from the ground and you'll have to work back left pretty quick or you'll be forced up into a rotten looking A-frame roof up high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 sounds like you'll have your hands full with that fa. good luck. Â i'll have to check it out when i visit this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 If you make the Boardwalk chains, then traverse Right @13 feet then up, I backed off that terrified from the lose slab shit years ago. Â Small cajones I guess. Â It is pretty much straight up from Raindance. It looks like it should go right up over the top in @ 3-4 pitches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 bill, i've never climbed raindance...........is that the bolted route to the right of the first pitch of yw? Â have you ever noticed the cool roofs to the left of the first pitch of yw. it looks like you could have two mixed pitches starting off the ground that would end at tree ledge. Â i'll be up climbing thursday-monday you should come out for the fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 Bill, Â That sounds about like my little foray up there. Maybe we should take Mark up on his offer and all go out and sort some of this out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 joseph, not sure if i'm the guy to do this fa as i've got unfinished stuff i'm already working on. but i would definitely take a closer look............doesn't sound like the most promising rock though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 bill, i've never climbed raindance...........is that the bolted route to the right of the first pitch of yw? Â Yes, just to the right of Boardwalk. Â have you ever noticed the cool roofs to the left of the first pitch of yw. it looks like you could have two mixed pitches starting off the ground that would end at tree ledge. Â I think there is a Bob Mcgowen route over in that vicinity there. How about that sweet diheadral to the immediate R of YW? I was asked not to do that @ 2 years ago by some guys who said it was a "project". Never hear if they did it, but it still looks loose and dirty, as if they changed their mind. Â i'll be up climbing thursday-monday you should come out for the fun. Â Lets hook up Sunday. I have a do with some real old friends on Saturday who I rarely see, and work week days:-(. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 Mark, Â If you're going to be out there maybe we could just run up Young Warriors for a look-see. I agree the rock probably isn't the greatest up there or there would already be routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 (edited) bill, sounds good about sunday. i think i'm going to sleep on land of the little people saturday night with kevin and arent so i should be out climbing early. a few others will be out sunday morning so we should have a good group to climb with. we were going to try to establish the second pitch to rise up, a climb kevin and i put up last year. Â i'd be very surprised if someone climbed through the roofs to the left of YW. if they did they truly did it with the ethic "leave no trace". it would be very bold to climb without bolts. Â joseph, at the very least we could look at it from the ground and see if it's worthy to climb up their. i think bill is on to something with that dihedral to the right of YW. Â edit: correct spelling of my own friends name and better clarify what i was trying to say. Edited August 17, 2004 by markd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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