NF of Mt Robson question???

[Jedi]

Is there anyone here that has attempted The North Face of Robson? I am curious about the rock section above Berg Lake, left of Mist Glacier. I have only read brief descriptions like: "Crumbly buttress of typical Canadian Rockies limestone & shale that require care".

In another article about the climb: "5.4 to 5.6 climbing."

And "expect 3rd to 5th class". What is 3rd to 5th class like?

Thanks for any insight or info on this route.

Jedi

[mattp]

Jedi-

 

"Third to Fifth" means that different parties have had very different reactions to the rock rib, or that the author guesses that they will. On lots of alpine climbs there are sections that one party will scramble but which others will treat with belays and pro -- epecially on crumbly rock which is less than vertical. However, my recollection is that there are two alternative approaches to the N Face that do not utilize that rock rib at all, so if you are planning a trip there and you don't like the sounds of the rib you might check into these.

[haireball]

I climbed the North Face of Robson in September of 1979. Did not approach via the Berg Glacier, but walked from Berg Lake up the Robson River to the Robson Glacier, then climbed over the helmet to get to the North Face. This approach is much longer than the Berg Glacier approach (a full extra day's walk) but very scenic, and non-technical. Good luck!

[Guest]

did not do N Face, but I was on Emperor Face a couple of winters ago. Everything was frozen solid then. But my advice to you is- if you worry about that section of the route, maybe go and do something else instead? Get to know Rockies, do some limestone routes, some ice faces and then go. Robson is a VERY, VERY big mountain. it creates it's own weather (which we had a chance to taste).

Really, go and do like Mt Fay, something on Mt Temple, Athabasca. I think if you have Rockies skill and ability that section is nothing to worry about.

 

[ 08-10-2002, 09:03 PM: Message edited by: climbmachine ]

[Jedi]

Climbmachine;

I am not concerned about the difficulty of this section as far as being "too difficult". In wanting to climb the mountain in the best and fastest (fast being a relative term) style possible, I was interested in other peoples 1st hand experiences. It is the only place rock gear might be used. I hope so climb the upper 2600' as light as possible as not to work my wimpy calves any more than needed.

I was hoping someone was going to say that it is mostly a steep scramble and maybe a couple stoppers would suffice.

Man, how was the Emperor Face? A stunning face in the pictures I have seen.

 

Yeah, I am not use to 3rd or 5th class approaches here on the East Coast so I am still not sure what they are. I guess it is different difficulties of scrambling which I do not see warranting a rope or gear (must easier than YDS 5.0 or it would be rated so). Is that about right Matt? If there is 5.6, I am guessing it is a 5.6 move or two move while scrambling. I kinda pictured hiking up the rock behind the Emmons glaicer ranger hut to the Inter Glaier (which was easy). I guess I'll try to call a ranger to get a little info.

I read in Climbing issue 172 where the author (in 1979) and hoofed Mist Glacier but with the constant changing conditions of glaciers, I did not know if this was possible and a good option.

 

I never thought about trying that Haireball but with us making a short trip up, We are hoping too limit the number of days on route. Thanks for you input though. Did you guys enjoy the route??

Jedi

 

[ 08-12-2002, 05:07 AM: Message edited by: Jedi ]

[mattp]

Jedi -

I have not been there, so I can only speculate. However, do not not underestimate the Canadian Rockies -- especially Mount Robson. If you have not climbed in the range before, the crumbly rock is probably entirely unlike anything you have ever experienced and you are likely to have the sense that NOTHING can be trusted and that an entire step in the rige might fail without notice and with fatal consequences. Have you ever climbed such a thing with crampons on? Should it have snowed not to long before your climb, or should there be some verglas or something, this is also a possibility. I would guess that it is far more serious than climbing to the Prow from Camp Schurman - with more difficult climbing on rock that is harder to assess visually and more exposure.

matt

 

[ 08-12-2002, 09:10 AM: Message edited by: mattp ]

[Guest]

Jedi, it's really simple. Matt is right. Such rock is all over. Try to do descent from Andromeda through AA Col? Or try to descent from Stanley peak. You can find yourself on 50 to 70 dergee rock, where everything is lose. And you have to have know how to move fast. You'll have to get down crap like that on S. Face ( fastest descent). Our point was, go and get to know the Rockies before you jump on the biggest thing there. As far as pro- bring knife blades, that's what really works. Maybe some lost arrows and bugaboos. You always have to bring a couple of pins there. Matt is right and listen to the man. It is not like in the Cascades.

Jedi- I don't want to sound like a dick. Your question is legit. I just think you might want to climb a couple of climbs before going on Robson. (if you never climb in the Rockies before). Have fun.

 

[ 08-12-2002, 10:18 AM: Message edited by: climbmachine ]

[Jedi]

Thanks fella's. Good info indeed.

I have climbed the North Face of Athabasca and descended the AA Col but it was in March so there was mosty snow in the col. There was a little rock above the col but it was all frozen and low angle.

I am unsure if I have ever climbed anything like the rock section on Robson. But you guys have convinced me that it will be loose and I should go ready to rope up and place gear. Thanks for info on KB's as the most useful pins. I'll be sure to have some on hand with a few other pieces.

The only recent climbing with a pack & crampons I have done was in the Ruth Gorge this past May. The rock was mostly frozen in place and pretty good in quality.

I did climb Mt Temple in the Sierra's. I was surprised how much loose rock was on those "highly recommended" routes but that was with climbing shoes.

Sounds like I should expect the unexpected and less reliable rock.

Thanks guys!

Jedi

[mattp]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Jedi:

Sounds like I should expect the unexpected and less reliable rock.

---

Less reliable ice, too. Very often, the N. Face never really comes "in" as it new snow throughout the season. A few years ago it was skied in September, the month when most of the ice climbs along the Banff Jasper highway are thought most likely to be in their prime. But what a prize:

 

[Terminal_Gravity]

Nice picture mattp, thanks. Any possibility you could E-mail it to me? tgbsteve@eoni.com

 

jedi, when are you heading up there? I may be on it around 9/17. The above posters are correct about Robson. The south face/swartz ledges made me turn with tail between my legs last year on a solo attempt.

[iain]

wow. I've always wanted to get on that thing. maybe next year.

[Jedi]

Matt,

So ice is in along the Banff Jasper highway? Any recommended routes off the top of your head??

Matt, you should post the other good shot from that same trip. The North Face is stunning is both shots. I hope we have that kind of weather. I heard there was 1 summit in June and 2 in July.

They had a meter of snow last week (in one dump), I think.

TG,

We hope to be standing at Berg Lake the afternoon of Sept 10th. We have to fly out the 16th, so unfortunately, it looks like we will miss meeting you. Dag, we could give you the heads up on conditions if we did see you.

Let me know if you go any earlier.

Jedi

[Dru]

he means alpine ice like andromeda strain/supercouloir/nf of edith cavell, not waterfall ice. that doesnt come in till october.

[erik]

i dont think that is mattp's photo guys....it is linked from bivi.com.....still a fantastic shot though....

[TimL]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Jedi:

They had a meter of snow last week (in one dump), I think.

---

Jedi,

 

Have you heard any other beta about weather or climbing conditions? I'm thinking of heading up there the last week of August. Thanks.

[Dru]

Stormy conditions last week and stability this week.

[mattp]

What those guys said. The alpine ice routes are generally best late season. There are lots to choose from, at a variety of grades, with some being pretty much roadside attractions and others constituting a mini-expedition. The photo is from bivouac.com.

[Jedi]

Tim, how did your trip go?

 

What's the latest up there Dru?

Jedi

[AlpineK]

I've been to the base of the NF in the mid 80's. We walked around the east side of berg lake and scrambled up the moraine on the east side of the Berg glacier. We stayed on scree and rock until we reached about 2/3 of the elevation to the base of the NF. We then climbed a ramp to our high camp.

 

A friend of mine just got back from up there and it's snowy and cold.