[TR] WA ice guide misinfo- 7/21/2004

[glassgowkiss]

Climb: WA ice guide misinfo-

 

Date of Climb: 7/21/2004

 

Trip Report:

hey, yes i am slow and just opened up wa state ice guide. i would like to get a couple of things straight, as i think they are quite important facts.

Pyramid peak- the name of the route is "It ain't over motherfuckers". second the route is on east face not on north face - see the picture. also before you go and traverse the ramp for two pitches you must climb a nasty little section of WI3.

as far as the route on Colflax, i think the rating is off. the route should be more like WI4/4+, not 5/5+. the pro was kind of sucky, but in my opinion technical rating should not reflect seriuosness.

[JayB]

Nice line.

 

So are you gonna hit the obvious series of runnels to the right of your original line this Winter?

[layton]

is the north face the same steepness as the east face (can't tell from angle). The runnels looks neat poking out on the N.F. but it looks pretty low angled.

[JoshK]

 

I dont know what the book calls it, but if your goal is to get published they aren't going to print something like that obviously.

[glassgowkiss]

the name was published and the point is misprinted. same withe the N. face instead of east.

[Alex]

Robert, I will take care of your corrections for the next edtion. We published the name as "It Ain't Over Yet, Motherfuckers" I think...? We got it pretty close...?

 

Michael, N F Ruch Cotter is not quite as steep as E Face.

 

You can always submit corrections directly to me and Jason here:

http://www.wastateice.net/default.htm

[JoshK]

Alex, I am surprised they didn't care about the motherfuckers in there. They were cool with anything I take it? I've seen other guidebooks "censored" and thought it was stupid but just the way it was... ?

[Alex]

You shouldnt be so surprised. The Mountaineers Books *are* actually tied to a climbing organization, and as such are not quite so uptight as to worry about a foul word or two buried somewhere in 60,000+ words. The publishers were very agreeable about route names in general

[glassgowkiss]

Alex, i did send this to your web page right now. a couple of smaller notes. first of all i think areas like Colonial peak or Pyramid are the best with as little snow as possible- hence they are rather early season routes. I would like to see some of them repeated more often. personally i don't think any of them are that hard and any climber who is proficient with WI4/5 can climb these things without any problems. under right conditions they can be fun, moderate and good training routes for bigger ranges.

[Captain panther]

bob, have you been missin out on sheep love lately?

[fourteenfour]

makes sense...