jaee Posted July 20, 2004 Posted July 20, 2004 Climb: Shuksan-Fisher Chimneys Date of Climb: 7/17/2004 Trip Report: Hiked in to Lake Ann Friday afternoon under bluebird skies. Pleasant temperatures and not too many bugs yet. Rolled out of camp around 3:30 Saturday morning and headed up the chimneys. Routefinding is straightforward if you've looked at any route descriptions. The "big boulder" is key in Beckey's description above the talus field. Head for the right side of it and you're in the groove. Chimneys are clear and mostly dry. Winnie's Slide is a tad over 50° and 175' high. Bottom of the upper Curtis is solid ice. We climbed up the ice then traversed directly up and over the Upper Curtis. No problems w/ crevasses. Hell's Highway is ~45° and maybe 120' high thru the steep section. The berg is still mostly closed. Sulphide in great shape, w/ just a few narrow slots we stepped over. We kept near the climber's left and headed for the rock island down low to ditch crampons. We climbed the gulley, which was a little mankier than I'd expected. Downsloping slabs and lots of loose plates. After a long break on the summit we did a couple raps and downclimbed thru the gulley. The descent was long and uneventful. We downclimbed the rock to get off the Upper Curtis and threw in a couple pickets down Winnie's Slide, for safety. Go get it. It's in fine shape right now. Gear Notes: Used: Couple pickets Tat/webbing for rapping Shoulda had: Couple rap rings to throw on the wad of stuff in the gulley. Approach Notes: Just a little snow before Lake Ann. Bugs will be bad soon. Quote
cluck Posted July 20, 2004 Posted July 20, 2004 Been wanting to do this route. Any pics to share? Quote
chelle Posted July 20, 2004 Posted July 20, 2004 Has Winnie's slide gotten steeper? I recall it being about 40 degrees. Quote
jaee Posted July 20, 2004 Author Posted July 20, 2004 If it was 40° then and it is 50° now and by steeper you mean at a greater angle and by gotten you mean has become, then the answer should be obvious to the most casual observer. Quote
genepires Posted July 21, 2004 Posted July 21, 2004 who's got the protractor? Let's measure the beyotch! Quote
Dru Posted July 21, 2004 Posted July 21, 2004 where is the digital clinometer download and 3 witnesses? Quote
jeffh Posted July 22, 2004 Posted July 22, 2004 Don't have the clinometer download but just did the route yesterday and 50 degrees on Winnie's slide sounds about right. Of course, if you asked me as I was down climbing the sucker, it was probably more. Very enjoyable route. Quote
IceIceBaby Posted July 23, 2004 Posted July 23, 2004 I climb it with Jeffrey yesterday and I will second the notion of at least 50 for some reason it seems steeper, HH seems very steep too I thought it was steeper then 45 but what do I know I just know that down climbing some of it was weird …yep it was a long day Quote
off_the_hook Posted July 26, 2004 Posted July 26, 2004 where is the digital clinometer download and 3 witnesses? No digital clinometer or protractor but myself and ChucK agreed that on the climber's left side of Winnie's slide the angle was 40 degrees as described by Beckey or perhaps a degree or two over. Hells Highway was more like 35-40 degrees in my opinion. Quote
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