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the biggest whipper


erik

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Well I can't help myself. In 1977 I was attempting the second ascent of a route called a Wrinkle in Time in Toulumne Meadows. I made it through the crux lower half just fine then clipped the last bolt. I was assured this was a long bolt and a well placed one. Then I headed up and left through a series of little ramps, finally ending at a short traverse left into the carck which very quickly turns over into the belay shared with Cibola. I got to the crack and was resting the bottom of my hand on a BIG crystal jutting out of the edge of the crack. Just then the crystal broke off, I lost my right hand, my left hand wasn't on at the moment, I desperatly danced on some edges. But, to no avail, I was airborne. I'm not sure how long the fall was. Big enough to see a huge loop of slack in the rope as I fell. Estimates by witnesses range from eighty to a hundred feet all through the air. I didn't hit the end of the rope that hard as I has about twenty five feet out to the left of the bolt, but boy a swung like a sack of potatoes across the very knobby wall when I hit bottom. I tried to protect my head. The ony injury I sustained was, I peeled the skin off my nose all the way back to my cheek. I dont know why I wasn't injured more. The Gods were with me that day. As I hung in my swammi belt, that's right swami belt, I was bleeding like mad on my only clean shirt. So I hung upside down so as not to get blood on the shirt while my partners tied another rope on so that they could lower me to the ledge. I got plenty altered that night too be sure and my buddies presented me with a set of wings that night. I got right back on the stone the next day. A nice well protected route to be sure.

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Eons ago a guide friend was just starting his leading career in Squamish. As many a first time leader has done he was padding up the ultra classic Diedre on the Squamish apron. About two pitches up he's padding along knees trembling on this 5.6 and glances off to his left to see a leader way out in no man's land on White Lighting....an ultra classic in it's own right and quite a bit harder---10.C. Twenty feet out over the bolt pondering the meaning of it all this guy is the picture of calm and cool. At that moment, several pitches up, someone drops a biner. Flashing, arcing and tumbling in the late afternoon hue the thing is headed directly for Mr. Hardman. One last bounce and the biner is closing in on what looks like soon to be a direct hit. At the last moment the leader leaps off the slab, snatches the biner out of the air four feet over his head, and does a Carl Lewis forty feet backwards onto a rusty quarter-inch bolt. He turns to the belayer, yells, "I got it", holds the booty high, and then snags the biner to his harness. He then starts casually padding forty feet back up to the crux. Meanwhile me friend is paralyzed fifty feet away, thinking if that's what you've got to be able to do to climb 10 C it ain't never going to happen.

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