Mount Athelstan report.

[Mtnclimber]

Climbed Mt. Athelstan on monday via the moonraker route. Found the route to be much easier than expected. Never found the 5.6 pitches at the base. We soloed all but the last two pitches, the rest of the route consisted of lots of 3rd and 4th class with a little low 5th. Most of the rock was the typical alpine loose stuff. The guide states that the route takes 7-10 hours from the bivy site to climb when in reality takes 5-6 from the car (If that). While the route was less than spectactular the area was great offering great views. If you are into alpine climbing this area is worth visiting.

Are the other two routes better and is climbing more consistant? Any beta- How long do the routes really take to climb? I would like to make another visit to this area except the decent glacier is quickly turning into a ice climb with rock fall hazard and openning Seracs. Does anyone have any recommendation for other routes in this area with more consistant difficulties and better rock?

[Cpt.Caveman]

Aaron,

 

Sometimes it's not about the difficulty of the route but the whole journey. Sounds fun.

[To_The_Top]

Aaron, good job. Call me friday night. Might be free Sunday. Maybe a climb with your Dad?

Bill

[jordop]

I believe that may well be one of the few repeats of the climbs Dru put up there. Friends who attempted Lillarete found "bad" rock as well and gave up. Why'd ya choose Moonraker? Other lines look a bit more aesthetic, no?

[Dru]

Moonraker was repeated 5x in 2001 (John Howe soloed the whole thing) and Lillarete 2x. Standing Wave is a great route. Selective Cut and Raised By Bears are so-so.

 

I never said anything about 5.6 at the base, I said low 5th. Blame Kevin.

 

The 7-10 hrs is pretty standard for a party that maxes out at 5.7 and belays the whole thing. If you thought it was too easy you could have climbed Lillarete instead.

[Dru]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Mtnclimber:

Climbed Mt. Athelstan on monday via the moonraker route. Found the route to be much easier than expected. Never found the 5.6 pitches at the base. We soloed all but the last two pitches, the rest of the route consisted of lots of 3rd and 4th class with a little low 5th. Most of the rock was the typical alpine loose stuff. The guide states that the route takes 7-10 hours from the bivy site to climb when in reality takes 5-6 from the car (If that). While the route was less than spectactular the area was great offering great views. If you are into alpine climbing this area is worth visiting.

Are the other two routes better and is climbing more consistant? Any beta- How long do the routes really take to climb? I would like to make another visit to this area except the decent glacier is quickly turning into a ice climb with rock fall hazard and openning Seracs. Does anyone have any recommendation for other routes in this area with more consistant difficulties and better rock?

---

more beta as requested