layton Posted June 29, 2004 Author Posted June 29, 2004 The NE face of dragontail has nice cracks all over, unforetunately the rock is mostly garbage, and if it is good, it's covered in loose shit from above. I honestly wouldn't bother with Dragonfly or any other route on the NE side. Backbone ridge is pretty much the best line on the mtn, and it's pretty junky too. I think the NE side has had it's day in the sun. The best line still looks like that big dihedral, although I wouldn't expect it to be a very good route. If I was to go back, I would try a line on the other side of the glacier on that huge granite mountain across from the NE face of D-tail. Bring yer aiders though. Quote
ken4ord Posted June 29, 2004 Posted June 29, 2004 If you are talking about that wall you see once you crest Dragontail, yeah I agree that wall looks sweet. Quote
layton Posted June 29, 2004 Author Posted June 29, 2004 (edited) I'm talking about the wall/mtn that is part of the colchuck balanced rock massif, the highest wall up the pass. Â I hope wayne posts his info on dragontail. It's confusing b/c it looks different from any aspect or vantage point you look at the NE face from. Â p.s. About MisterE and my route.... we're not claiming any big prize. it could have been done, but i doubt it. Just a fun day out with no guidbook, searching for adventure (which we found). Edited June 29, 2004 by michael_layton Quote
Alpinfox Posted June 29, 2004 Posted June 29, 2004 Â Nice climbin' guys! Â I'm sitting under a literal raincloud of jealousy up here in Juneau, AK. Â Ken, sorry to hear about Das Foot. Have some and kick back for a while. Â Cheers Ya'll Quote
Dru Posted June 29, 2004 Posted June 29, 2004 it could have been done, but i doubt it  yeah encountering loose belayer slayers is usually a clue. you guys DID trundle it right? Quote
layton Posted June 29, 2004 Author Posted June 29, 2004 You'll have to ask MisterE. I put a cam at it's base to keep it connected to the mountain while i stood ontop of it. It mighta held a fall? Quote
EWolfe Posted June 30, 2004 Posted June 30, 2004 It was a decently lodged knife. I stood on it, but didn't pull  I may be up for doing the wide dihedral with someone. Need some big gear, I have one each 3.5,4,4.5,5; we would probably need at least one set more, and some big bros.  PM me if interested, the approach is a bit further, but the line goes independent except for maybe 1 or two pitches on the NE ridge.  Glacier? Quote
Alpinfox Posted June 30, 2004 Posted June 30, 2004 Â You lookin' fer an offwidth partner? You best getcherself a HANSEL!!! Quote
slaphappy Posted June 30, 2004 Posted June 30, 2004 Um, nice work gents, but Layton, do you ever climb anything "new" that isn't 10b R? Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 30, 2004 Posted June 30, 2004 layton. i believe you are talking about enchantment peak. dragontail is nice quality msb in an alpine setting..what else can you ask for???? Quote
layton Posted June 30, 2004 Author Posted June 30, 2004 all I know is there are tons of routes just as pretty with much better rock. That being said, Dragontail is a fucking cool place to be shitty rock and all. Gotta love the Fin and the O.W. on backbone! The rest is a blur. Â Yes, I also climb things that are 10d (X), and also another plug for "Back of Beyond Buttress" a 10b with solid pro the whole way up and just about if not the best alpine rock climb I've ever done. I was told it is in this years CAJ, and last years AAJ. Quote
dberdinka Posted June 30, 2004 Posted June 30, 2004 So if this is the crux, and you have gear at yer balls, whats with the R part of rating? Is it the semi-loose block, or is there easier runout climbing? Know what I'm saying. 5.10b with a stretch of 5.8R sound cool for many folks. 10b R sounds sketchy for many folks (me included). Â Quote
slaphappy Posted June 30, 2004 Posted June 30, 2004 I thought my question/comment was legitimate, perhaps not worded the most appropriately but legitimate. Quote
EWolfe Posted June 30, 2004 Posted June 30, 2004 Slaphappy, why the ?? Â Darrin: The crux is not R, per se, although the gear may kittylitter out. Below the crux is some 5.9+ climbing (above the Belayer Slayer), where the gear is crap, and if one were to fall, one may pull those pieces and then onto the gear around the lodged block, making it R. Â Hope that helps. Â Erik Quote
slaphappy Posted June 30, 2004 Posted June 30, 2004 moderator's heavy hand of the **DELETE** button. Whatever. Quote
TimL Posted June 30, 2004 Posted June 30, 2004 WTF - Slappyhappy asked a legit question. When did it become a rule that you have to be nice all the time. Certainly confrontation adds a little spice to life. Frankly, if your going to moderate a question, even if its not in the tone, then you should moderate the spray reports that are recorded in this forum? Quote
icegirl Posted June 30, 2004 Posted June 30, 2004 Hey, why don't you guys go get the second ascent and then rate it. That would be more trustworthy than armchair climbing/rating from behind a keyboard. Quote
EWolfe Posted July 1, 2004 Posted July 1, 2004 You guys are slow. Â I expected the downgrading to begin on Monday. Quote
Dru Posted July 1, 2004 Posted July 1, 2004 if layton climed it it can be no harder than 5.9- or fred 4th class Quote
skyclimb Posted July 1, 2004 Posted July 1, 2004 Â Good work you two. Mister Layton giving Mister E an education in the Alpine. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted July 1, 2004 Posted July 1, 2004 Hey, why don't you guys go get the second ascent and then rate it. That would be more trustworthy than armchair climbing/rating from behind a keyboard. hey when do you wanna go? Quote
icegirl Posted July 1, 2004 Posted July 1, 2004 you talkin' to me? Give me a month or two of being a homeless climbing bum and I just might take you up on that offer. Â Until then I think I'm sticking to the easy stuff Quote
EWolfe Posted July 1, 2004 Posted July 1, 2004 Â Good work you two. Mister Layton giving Mister E an education in the Alpine. Â Hey! This was MY FIFTH alpine climb, Pal. Quote
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