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Posted

Yeah everybody does it and I do too, but how sketchy is this really? Stuff is rated to 450kg, but, god, it just seems wrong to rap off such skipmy shit. Opinons? Anybody have any 1/2" horror stories that will convert me back to 3/4" bigdrink.gif

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Posted

Talk about skimpy shit, you got any Mammut Dyneema slings? Sure they're super strong spectra/kevlar whatever, but it's still a head trip to put a load on one. cantfocus.gifcrazy.gif

Posted

9/16" Climb Spec is a lot stronger than 1/2", webbing. I have no reservations about rapping from new 9/16".

 

I recall Wayne and Colin mentioning that they used the 1/2" on their Picket Range Traverse, however, Colin mentioned that they used it to back up old slings they found and that whenever they built a new anchor, they used two turns of it around a horn or whatever. He kept a bunch of it in a stuff sack with one end sticking out. Whenever he needed some, he'd just pull out what he wanted and cut it off.

 

I'd use it that way too, but I'd want to use a double or triple fisherman's rather than water knots.

Posted

cbs

 

i dont think tying a fisherman's knot is gonna save you anymore then a water knot. just have long enough tails and each person check the knot before they start rappelling. i am not out there on a community service project to make sure rap stations on in good shape for the next guy to come along and use.

Posted

I use it under ideal conditions.

Trees, bolts. Not around rocks.

I also use it for prussiks and have an alpine cordelette, web-o-lette style made of it. not for hanging belays or anything, more as a "just in case".

Also my ice-axe leash and webbing on my aiding hooks.

Posted

used this stuff whilst bailing off the torment-forbidden traverse...i still feel alive, albiet rather hungover...my partner was much less enthusiastic about trusting this shit, odd, since i weight almost 100 lbs more...

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