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Dane

Situational Ethics?

Is it OK to chip a hold or two to create a climb on natural rock?  

438 members have voted

  1. 1. Is it OK to chip a hold or two to create a climb on natural rock?

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Yeah I can think of a good dozen routes I've been on at Smith that have been retrobolted and I don't even climb hard.

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well...let's hear them...what are they?

 

The ones i know of are heinous (which had chipped rp placements to start with), and karate wall...what are the others???

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there's that 5.5 solo over on adit rock. it has bolts now.

and that former solo up to the bolts on spiderman.

a bunch of bolts up the approach to white satin.

sky ridge.

round river direct.

cave route.

 

basically stuff you probably don't bother with.

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what is coexistence about retrobolting existing routes?

 

what part of ESTABLISHING routes didn't you get? I never said one way or the other about retrobolting... the_finger.gif

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in these cases the person "establishing" a sport route is not "peacefully coexisting" with the existing trad route but rather destroying it the_finger.gifthe_finger.gifthumbs_down.gif

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dear rudy

 

please try and stay on topic

 

the argument of this thread is if it is ever ok to retrobolt existing trad routes, bolt on artificial holds or chip holds on existing or new routes

 

your plea for coexistence of these practices with traditional climbing and chip-free, fake-hold-free, not-bolting-cracks "traditional" sport climbing is therefore spurious. these practices are unsupportable and cannot coexist with real climbing and should be abolished, expunged, destroyed, abominated, abhorred, jihaded against, and declared anathaema wherever they are found to have sprung up like a nasty rash.

 

it's really simple - if you want to bolt up a sport route, find - 1) a line that will go without subversive alterations and 2) a line with no natural pro. bolt the fuck out of it, grease your skinny legs with vaseline, force your lycra on, stick clip the draws and have at'er. THAT is the only acceptable coexistence.

 

If on the other hand, your line has blank sections YOU can't free, or is too loose to be safe, hmmmm - maybe you should go somewhere else. Cause it sounds like your proposed line sux and there is no rock shortage in the pnw....

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dear dru...

 

I make a statement slightly off topic and you, of all people, rip me about straying from the topic? YOU WHO SPRAY ON EVERY POSSIBLE THREAD???

 

Don't lecture me...

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anytime you wanna give me a lesson on trad climbing, you have at it, big boy...

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please stay on topic rudy. you have already digressed once. if you want to chestbeat about how you should be allowed to veer wackily off topic, start a new thread in "spray" about it.

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yelrotflmao.gifyou are too funny...no, i will continue to bait you IN THIS THREAD so we can destroy it together...

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there's that 5.5 solo over on adit rock. it has bolts now.

and that former solo up to the bolts on spiderman.

a bunch of bolts up the approach to white satin.

sky ridge.

round river direct.

cave route.

 

basically stuff you probably don't bother with.

 

I never go to Smith, but I can think of two: Zebra Seam and Lion's Chair (1st pitch).

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