layton Posted June 21, 2004 Posted June 21, 2004 Climb: Cutthroat Peak-Communtiy Service Project Date of Climb: 6/20/2004 Trip Report: (Picutres slowly to come.) Note: I am posting this not from my computer. I have broken into someone's house. No lie. The window was open... ...My last final exam is over! I rush home and throw everything in my car and race to Bellingham from Portland. Jordan Peters meets me at the height of human depravity, Stuarts Coffee Shop, site of my last refuge in Bellingham last year. The hippies have taken over. There is no going back. The age of man is over. We drive to Washington Pass, but first to Necro's house to leave cars. He is climbing with Darin. We wonder when they will fail.... Same day continues on, i am getting confused. My soul, as the Sherpa's say, as not caught up. it never does. Could've won like 7,000 tickets at the Wack-a-Mole game. The snafflehounds are now in control. Cutthroat now sulks above me. New route? Yes! Average of 4 hours of sleep for two weeks. Now I can't sleep. Jordan and I drink (each) a full hip flask of Canadian whiskey -different brands. Then the spray begins....all is black. Thoughs of maybe taking a day to chill out after finals invades my dreams. Dear GOD! What the fuck is that noise? Alarm! Achtung! Where the fuck am I? Why is it so fucking hot? Wake up time. Now as some keen readers may observe, my previous experience on cutthroat peak involved some hardcore fecal hording. NOT THIS DAY! in fact, Jordan, worried as to the legacy of this mtn, let loose his brown creation 4 times in 2 hours. Sweet holy jesus! We are spared from the gut churning to come. I am worried that i have herniated my gut. I cannot stand straight. Also, my equilibrium seems to be severly impared. Mouth....soooooo dry. So WHY hasn't the West Face of Cutthroat been climbed Jordan and I wonder from the comfort of out spray chairs? Shit, i've seen it up close. I should know. But alas, as an alpinist, i do not remember such details as what things look like, the rock quality, gear, approach, etc... Looks damn fine from the car. Looks pretty good from camp. Hell, lets climb it. It was the whiskey talking. West Face of Cuttroat Peak: Joran Peters and Mike Layton. Whatever day it is, 2004. Climb, "Community Service Project" 5.fun (X) It should've been a nice approach. I thought I was gonna die. Jordan felt the same. We took too much. to much tooo much too much. I gotta quit this, I think. Jordan alerts me that then I would have nothing. Ouch! YEAH! Jordan got the fist pitch! Do i remember what that was? NO! Already blotted out like a good alpinist. It was a four star pitch if I remember. My next lead climbed on rocks. It was soooo much fun and safe. A classic. Most cam lobes touched the rock...all at once! A giveaway! It starts to blur. Jordan stems an entire pitch no b/c it was a stemming pitch, but b/c the rock was sooo solid, that he didn't want to not be on it and maybe chop the ropes by doing something silly like sneezing, or using his feet. I go up. No gear. Ever. Scared. Rockfall. I yell to jordan to move the belay behind a boulder. He does. I send down another rock. I bounces, hits my leadropes, accelerates to mach 10, basketball size right at jodan's Face. It hits the boulder right at his face and spilts in two, sending both 1/2's across each ear on his head unhit! He falls backwards as I watch in horror. Nope, I'm definately not on belay anymore. I clutch the downsloping oatmeal. More pitches. The route wanders in search of gear. Our headwall is blank, verticle, and totally featureless. We change direction. My head is spinning from the day before and the devilish heat. Must be 90 degrees out. Jordan leads a desperate mung flake. I lead verticle kitty litter with no gear. a green alien fits in the sand. It looks pretty there, so I go up more. Jordan curses my judgement as he follows the pitch. somethign about how he would've died on lead there..... FUCK! We wind up in the descent gully Necro and I rapped long ago. The route is over. There are no options. A variation to something was established at least. What? Yes! Our communtiy service project to the climbing community! Our mission? Well it's to present a route of such grace and form to the world climbing community. Mission Accompished! Descent was lots of fun too. I missed a couple really realy good oppurtinies to chop out rope. A mtn goat was trying to kick shit down on us. In fact, 3 raps took 3 hours. I was that much fun! I arrived in Bellingham to find the place I was gonna crash at is empty, and the owner is in AK till the 16th of next month. So I broke in and am not an official Squatter. Climbing is such a good social skills activity. Gear Notes: full body helmets trowels extra underpants Quote
jordop Posted June 22, 2004 Posted June 22, 2004 Where do we get application forms for the Piolet d'Or? Quote
skyclimb Posted June 22, 2004 Posted June 22, 2004 Nice work! So your route went up the face before the decent couloir?? I hear you about the kitty litter fun Quote
bobbyperu Posted June 23, 2004 Posted June 23, 2004 man... you guys are snagging all the great lines... leave some junk for the rest of us. Quote
layton Posted June 23, 2004 Author Posted June 23, 2004 we are gonna do some of the couloirs on the south face of Thorton and Ross peaks next... Quote
thrutch Posted June 23, 2004 Posted June 23, 2004 In your pic it appears that you missed the big face and bailed out to the ridge early? I am wondering did your tampon sponsers strong arm against the attempt at a proud line? Quote
Thadsboner Posted June 23, 2004 Posted June 23, 2004 Did you go to the tippy-top? if so, did you happen to see a nut tool with a biner on it??? i am just curios as to how and where it disapered. the last time i remember using it was on the top of that peak like a month ago for the Uber-Cliche eating tuna with a nut tool! i am man, hear me roar. i know what you mean about the chossy goodness, i was doing this chimney and i couldnt find a good handhold, so i picked one up and moved it to where it would be easier. Quote
jordop Posted June 24, 2004 Posted June 24, 2004 No tool, but I did find an ancient stopper and a BD Oval so old it was rated in kg not KN I dunno, how old is that Sucka who rapped off that half-wedged into an oatmeal groove was luckystoopid it didn't pull Quote
layton Posted June 24, 2004 Author Posted June 24, 2004 In your pic it appears that you missed the big face and bailed out to the ridge early? I am wondering did your tampon sponsers strong arm against the attempt at a proud line? We were saving that for you dude! Go get it! I looks amazing. We were like, "WOW" let's save that for Thrutch and do this other line to the left. Splitter cracks, good pro, and moderate climbing for sure. Better get after it soon though, such a proud line surely cannot last. Quote
layton Posted June 25, 2004 Author Posted June 25, 2004 Community Service Project takes the obvious line on Cuttroat Peak's West Face (upper 2/3 of face shown): Chucky Cheese installs the "Wack-a-Marmot" mallet game on the Cuttroat Peak approach. Literally hundreds of marmots popin' up everywhere! I won enough tickets to buy a plastic paratrooper figure, Jordop, the ultimate marmot whacker, won a giant foam ten gallon hat. View West on Community Service Project to other crappy projects Jordon Peters showing how you can't judge a route by it's photo each rappel has it's own blend of charm and grave...er grace Here's the nasty boring and totally ugly death march out. Hope it didn't crack your moniter glass! Quote
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