WA PASS Saturday Weather

[TrogdortheBurninator]

I am wondering how long bad weather at WA Pass usually holds off given its slightly more eastern location. I would like to do some climbing on Saturday at WA Pass, but the weather reports are calling for rain to reach the cascades at some point. I don't expect anyone to know for sure, but from some folks with a lot of time up there, do you think the weather might hold off for some of the day?

 

Also, I would like to try and climb The Beckey route on Lib Bell and the South Arete on SEWS both on Saturday. Could anyone who has done both in a day comment of the feasbility of doing both in a day for a relatively new 5.8 trad leader. Also, which would people reccomend to do first in terms of logistics as well as the possibility that the day could be cut short by rain.

 

Thanks in advance

[dbb]

Totally feasable. Both routes should only take a couple hours up and down, depending on your speed. Liberty bell is ~3 pitches, S arette is mostly scrambling so it goes very quick. You could probably even descend the SW gully on SEWS and be down in no time. I'd say pick the one you want to climb more first. If you have extra time, consider doing the SW Rib of SEWS instead of the S. Arete. It has more and interesting 5th class climbing (including a nice but not too hard 5.8 crack).

 

My guess on the weather is that it'll be in and out. Some sun followed by windy blowing snow. It does get some East side effect, but it doesn't look great on the E side this weekend too. Shouldn't be too big of an issue other than cold hands..

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Thanks AlpineDave, I will check the CAG on SW Rib and see how it looks.

[fredrogers]

You can easily do both in a day. I did them in a light snow last fall and we had the Beckey route all to our selves.

 

The S Arete is a couple of low 5th pitches and some class 3/4 scrambling. It is easy to bail off in case of bad weather since you rap the route.

 

I'd start with the S Arete first and then head down to the Beckey route- it's an easy side hill when snow covered. Also- both will probably be crowded- the S Arete more likely so.

 

Have fun.

[bremerton_john]

Since you are a "relatively new trad leader", bring at least one big cam (5") on that 5.8 pitch if you consider the SW Rib. The moves can be somewhat awkward over the section that is the widest gap. The Rib is a great climb, though, and more fun than the Arete. We did it and Concorde easily in a day. I know there are some stronger rock guns than I who've even tackled 3 or 4 of those in a day.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Can both routes (SEWS and Bell) be rapped with a single rope, or should we bring a second line.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Also, do people recommend bivying at the trail head Fri night, or driving in from Seattle Sat morn.

[Greg_W]

On that "bear hug" Pitch on SW Rib, better way to go would be a chunk of 2X4 about 6" long with 15-20-degree miters on each end (running parallel). Pop a hole in one side, about 1.5" from the end and thread a runner. BLAM!!! nice, light homemade BigBro; knock it in there nice and tight and consider leaving it fixed. Otherwise, don't bother with the big pro; it's like a stemming problem on super-grippy rock and it only lasts 3 moves.

[tomtom]

The North Face route on Concord Tower is 3p 5.6ish and starts next to Liberty Bell/Beckey. Fun route.

[MCash]

Yeah, why hike all the way over to SEWS. Link the Beckey Route on LB and the North Face on Concord. If you have extra time and are feeling good, try the Cave route on Concord or Overexposure on LB (both 5.8). That would give you the most bang for your buck, since they all start very close to each other.

[schnitzem]

On that "bear hug" Pitch on SW Rib, better way to go would be a chunk of 2X4 about 6" long with 15-20-degree miters on each end (running parallel). Pop a hole in one side, about 1.5" from the end and thread a runner. BLAM!!! nice, light homemade BigBro; knock it in there nice and tight and consider leaving it fixed. Otherwise, don't bother with the big pro; it's like a stemming problem on super-grippy rock and it only lasts 3 moves.

That reminds me of these pegs that some British climbers put on the "old man of Hoy" sea stack off of northern Scotland. There is a 5.10 chimney pitch that can only be protected by these huge old wood dowls.....supposedly the same as the ones placed by the first party.

 

Lets fix all the alpin offwidths in the State with wood so that we don't have to carry big heavy cams anymore!!!!