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Posted

Me and my assmonkey friends will be near Camp Muir this weekend. Where are the closest crevasses in which we can practice our crevasse rescue techniques?

 

Thanks!

- a s s m * n k e y

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Posted

Right on the Cowlitz downhill from Muir. Close. Some nice ones too for ice climbing.... Keep in mind once you cross from the snowfield over the little rocky ridge( where the shelters are), that you are on the glacier and there are crevasses everywhere that you can't see yet so rope up.

 

-Fear

Posted

Ass Boy, I hate to sound like your dad, but the ideal place to practice crevasse rescue (assuming you haven't practiced previously) is on a "dry" glacier (that is, on a glacier where there is little/no ephemeral snow cover). This time of year, on your way to the obvious crevasse on the Cowlitz, you will likely traverse many hidden crevasses which, in this warm weather, could be revealed when you punch through a soft snow bridge. Then you'll have a rescue "practice" which incorporates too many aspects of reality (possible injuries/deaths).

 

It is preferable to practice crevasse rescue for the first time in a forgiving environment (a small retaining wall, for example). If you are going to venture onto a glacier to practice crevasse rescue for the first time, it is wise to go in July/August at a lower elevation where all winter/spring snow has melted and where you can see every crevasse. The Nisqually glacier (below Glacier Vista) provides excellent opportunities. In these conditions, ice screws may be helpful.

 

Again, this advice is hyper precautionary, but I've attended crevasse rescue practices which nearly turned into rescue situations. And as good as he is, a little precaution is more likely to save your butt than an rescue plea to Big Lou.

Posted

Use snowbanks at Paradise parking lot. 37 seconds approach time. Zero exposure. You end up spending 100% of time working on your skills. If you do it early in the morning it may even be quite dry.

Posted

Thanks, good advice all. Not my first time, but first time for half of our group, and I assume they will be puckered. Best not to make this weekend TOO exciting for them.

 

Snowbanks idea is great. It also suits my lazy approach ethic. We will be in the Muir area this weekend, and the Nisqually is a bit out of the way for our plans. And I am lazy. Did I mention that already?

 

Question for Pope: Is it true? Do you shit in the woods?

 

Thank you gentlemen,

 

Mr. a s s m * n k e y

Posted
Where are the closest crevasses in which we can practice our crevasse rescue techniques?

rescue the crevasses from what? wayward turds? the herds weakest links? wtf?

Posted

OK, since it's not your first time, I feel stupid even saying this, but why not, I'll mention it anyway. When practicing the rescue back up the victim on a very well anchored second rope. I actually ran across some people that appeared to be practicing and the guy in the hole wasn't otherwise backed up. That was one of the more retarted things I've seen. If you are going somewhere with a short approach, just equalize a shitload of pickets or something.

Posted

Not sure if it's still there, but to the northeast of the Muir hut, there was a pretty big bank of snow that had formed. It drops in a pretty steep pitch for about 7 or 8 feet and then mellows out down low. This is where we practiced, and it worked wonderfully.

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