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Posted

Climb: Mt. Hood-Hogsback

 

Date of Climb: 5/15/2004

 

Trip Report:

Our party left the timerline lodge at just after midnight on Saturday morning with our thousand closest friends under clear skies and relatively warm weather. Routefinding was not an issue due to the seemingly hundreds of headlamps heading north.

 

Clouds rolled in between three and four obscuring the view of the moon and sunrise.

 

As the bergschund was completely open we roped up and skirted it to the left as did most other climbers. One brave party chose to save time from waiting in line and chose to cross the 'shrund by going straight over it. Check out the picture below!

 

We got to the summit after sunrise just in time for the skies to clear offering an absolutely killer view.

 

The summit was windy and we were exhausted so we snapped a couple of pictures and started the trip back down.

 

Past the hogsback on the decent the weather turned and we made the slog back down in whiteout conditions. Snow warmed up and became a real slog although we never did really poshole.

5255hogsback-med.JPG5255hogsback_slope2-med.JPG5255hogsback_slope-med.JPG5255crevasse_crossing-med.JPG5255brian_smile-med.JPG5255mountainmen-med.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

Used standard fare including ice axe, crampons, rope--although some people were not roped in.

 

Approach Notes:

Snow was in good condition for cramponing all the way to the top. Coming back down later in the day the snow softed up substantially.

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Posted

Nice TR & Pics. One question though: How long did it take your party to summit?

I am planning on an attempt this weekend weather permitting.

 

Thanks

Coop

Posted

Plan on about 5-7 hours up... really speedy folks go faster and slow climbers take longer, but this would be average pace.

 

Also, stay to the left (West) of triangle moraine area up above the top of the Palmer lift.

 

I was climbing with friends Saturday AM and talked to a guy who was heading East towards Wyeast and dropped unroped into a crevasse covered only by a sagging snow bridge. He was only about 50-100' off the boot pack below triangle moraine. His partner threw him a rope and he was able to climb out with 2 tools and one messed up ankle and made his way down the mountain OK.

 

You probably saw all the fuss yesterday about the climber in the same area who fell 50' in a similar slot and had to be rescued. Info and a picture of the hole here:

 

http://www.pmru.org/pressroom/headlines/hoodcrevasse051804.html

 

Bottom line..... there are more man eaters over by the east edge of the snow field (White River side) than are typical. Staying towards the center of the snow field and passing triangle morraine to the West is advised.

Posted

yea, great pics! Leah and I will be there on Friday night along with half of Portland. Thanks for the heads up on the schrund ... it looks very narrow rolleyes.gif the weather looks like a mixed bag of warm slush and cold piss! PERFECT

Posted
Leah and I will be there on Friday night along with half of Portland

 

And if the forecast is right you'll be there along with a major, windy storm.

 

Great photos! But next time please consider posting them vertically. ;-)

Posted

Yeah, Yeah....Sorry about the mis-fire with the picture posting.

 

That was my first shot at posting pix and I just hosed it up. See if I can get it right later in the season!

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